风味

Lalaie Ameeriar
{"title":"风味","authors":"Lalaie Ameeriar","doi":"10.1002/fea2.12128","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<p>I stumbled bleary-eyed into my daughter's nursery as I'd done a million times in the past 2 years. Pulled off her sleep sack as she jumped up and down. “Mommy, Mommy.” Something seemed weird. As I began to change her diaper, I was surprised to see a poop blowout. Then I realized it: I couldn't smell.</p><p>It happened to me. I'm one of those. She had come home from daycare with a fever about 10 days before. A few days later, I had what felt like a bad cold. In Ontario, there's no more free COVID testing unless you are part of a vulnerable population, and a single mother in a pandemic is no longer considered vulnerable enough. Earlier that day I had seen a United States–based friend's social media post about how COVID tests are being distributed through vending machines all over the University of California, Los Angeles campus. Having lived in California only a year and a half prior, the pictures of privilege hit me hard. Following provincial guidelines, I had to just go ahead and assume I had it.</p><p>I finished changing Sophie and took her to my room while I closed my eyes and played <i>Cocomelon</i> on my phone. Surviving our quarantine meant trying to get a little more half sleep before the day begins. Sophie had taken to looking at me and saying, “Mommy sleeping.” She wasn't kidding, and she definitely did some astute social commentary. More like “Mommy zombie.”</p><p>In 2017, I published a book that emerged from my own anxiety around growing up a “smelly immigrant,” or more specifically a “smelly Pakistani” (Ameeriar, <span>2017</span>). The anxiety was so great that I would fight with my mother when she cooked South Asian food—food that now, 4 years after her death, I wish I could ask her to make. I carried Secret antiperspirant in my backpack in high school, constantly reapplying during the day during those anxious, sweaty years when we're learning to become adults.</p><p>The pandemic has been weird. It's been weird for everybody, and for me it's meant a radical shift in my relationship to my body. A body that still hasn't fully recovered from the experience of birth. Bodily scars have more or less healed, but the body I inhabit is no longer mine. Or no longer just mine. I share it. I swore I would stop breastfeeding when my daughter turned 1, but then the vaccine was coming and evidence seemed to support that antibodies could be passed to infants through breastmilk, so I didn't wean. Then I imagined a hard deadline at 2, but the booster was supposed to pass antibodies to protect from Omicron, and the vaccine wasn't approved yet for those under 5. So, I waited again. It's been a month since I was boosted. We got COVID anyway.</p><p>But the most radical thing that happened to me during the pandemic was that I stopped wearing deodorant. It just kind of happened. I was living in London, England, when I got pregnant. They don't have good deodorant there anyway, but once you start sharing your body, and the Apple News app learns you're pregnant, you start seeing horror stories about products and the damage they can do to the fetus. It's horrifying, but I felt a bit up against a wall. The United Kingdom doesn't have the same air-conditioning practices that North America does, and so I was sweaty. I would go to movies in the summer months, pregnant and uncomfortable, seeking air-conditioning, but the British don't turn it up very high. I remember several times leaving a theater along with an American or Australian seeking out an employee to ask them to turn it up. So I bought Tom's of Maine natural deodorant, which honestly was worse than not wearing deodorant at all because then I smelled like sweat and chemical lavender. I didn't intend to stop wearing deodorant, it just happened over time until one day I realized I wasn't and hadn't been for a long time. Even as an adult I used to anxiously buy deodorant, stocking up, with extra bottles in the closet. The anxiety followed me as I continued trying to be an adult past childhood and my sweaty teenage years.</p><p>Smell, as I've written elsewhere, is emblematic of non-belonging (Ameeriar, <span>2017</span>). Martin Manalansan IV (<span>2006</span>) has discussed food smells as a basis of Othering immigrant bodies, and Aihwa Ong (<span>2003</span>) has written about how smells, unlike offensive bodies, cannot be contained, so the focus on offensive smells represents anxiety over managing refugee bodies in public space. Sareeta Amrute (<span>2018</span>) has beautifully written on the politics of disgust and the ways it is infused in everyday life and (<span>2020</span>) on “the sensate” to track the ways immigrants align, distance themselves from, and register the larger sociopolitical and economic contexts in which they are enfolded.</p><p>But what difference did the pandemic make to our ideas of smell? What would it mean if we continued not to smell—would it lead to greater equality? What would it mean if we couldn't smell other people? We live our lives on social media, especially these days and I'm a member of about a million mom groups, including one for working moms in Toronto that I joined during the pandemic. Not the best time for an international move. I read a post a few weeks ago where a white Canadian woman said she was putting together a workshop for international students on Canadian workplace etiquette and was wondering if any professional people had advice. She asked specifically for examples of cultural differences causing confusion or misunderstanding. There were 91 comments. Numerous white women responded by saying food at lunchtime. Story after story of people complaining that the food someone in their workplace was bringing “had a VERY strong smell,” to quote one post, and that other workers couldn't stay in the same area. Others pushed back on that kind of comment, saying food is cultural and that Canadians are closed-minded. Another woman chimed in that her 5-year-old niece in the United States was bullied for bringing South Asian food to school and refused to eat lunch for a week. Someone posted advice on looking at one's own privilege when one is uncomfortable with food smells. Someone invoked “hot climate cultures” and “cold climate cultures.” Someone mentioned perfumes and others hygiene for new immigrants (!). One woman said that her husband has had to have “difficult conversations” with employees regarding their hygiene, especially, she says, if he knows it's a “cultural behavior.” For the love of God.</p><p>In that same thread, some women of color themselves recommended nicknames or changing names to mask where you're from, making yourself once again into someone who won't be discriminated against. In the mid-2000s, I did my dissertation fieldwork that formed the basis of my book on smell. I went with women to job-finding seminars in which they were told not to show up “smelling like foreign food,” and yet at the same time within the same organizations were expected to participate in cultural festivals where the same foods and food smells that were so reviled were celebrated. The more things change, huh.</p><p>Being forced to stay inside, being quarantined, having the outside parts of our world shut down, did nothing to quell these enduring ideas about smell and Otherness. And that to me is the central failure, that these smells and comportments are just dystopic fantasy projections of an imagined threat, a peril threatening the white workplace. We could imagine a world in which smells are erased, in the style of a science fiction story like <i>Blindness</i> by José Saramago (<span>1997</span>) in which there is a mass epidemic of blindness that creates social chaos. Rather than creating a utopian space in which we transcend such differences because they seemingly no longer exist, I argue that differences would still matter because smell is just a guise for a deeper feeling, a disgust and fear, fear of the Other, fear of losing power.</p><p>Smell is about morality and moralizing, about constructing visions, dreams, images, selves. It's tied to class, race, gender, everything. It's a medium through which people judge others, as evidenced by that disturbing thread on the local moms at work page. Remember, we're defining the self <i>and</i> Other through difference (Low, <span>2005</span>). Constance Classen, David Howes, and Anthony Synnott (<span>1994</span>) have discussed smell and savagery and, to reference Koichi Iwabuchi (<span>2002</span>), what's called on for workers in the global market is the sweet scent of Asian modernity, which it turns out after all these years is still no scent at all. I digress—I spend most of my time with a tiny human only learning to talk who is more interested in animal sounds than what I have to say about smells.</p><p>As I said earlier, my body is no longer my own. I'm often partially clothed, running from one room to another. I'm always quietly strategizing my morning, like how to streamline getting dressed with fewer tears, mine and hers. It's hard to get a small human body ready as well as my own, and I'm only changing from one set of pajamas to sweats, but if I don't do it, I don't know. I need to do it. I can no longer control when I can go to the bathroom. We live in a small house in a super-white neighborhood. A good neighborhood for kids, I had thought, but the problem with living in the good neighborhood with all the stuff is all the darn privileged people. Our bathroom is on the second floor, and during these quarantine days I have to calculate when I can go: before I get her when she first wakes, when I change her to nap, while she naps (if she naps), while she's in the high chair for meals, or after she goes to bed. Emergencies are not allowed.</p><p>Losing a sense while trying to navigate parenthood, which is such a sensorial experience, has been weird. The most freakish thing has been that I can't smell her. I yearned for my lost smell to smell her small body. My tiny roommate of the past 2 years. Kids produce smells to make us love them. Or something. I'm not that kind of a scientist. Today I leaned in really close to the peach popsicle she insisted on eating, even though it's −15°C. A faint blush of something. Got it, but dull. I smelled three things today: peach popsicle, faint poop from what should have been intense poop, and my armpit. I checked again.</p><p>The connection between the senses and mothering speaks to the embodied experience of not only motherhood but close relations of all kinds where fluid and touch are exchanged and relied upon as a life source. The cultural marking of COVID also has a role to play in what a body is and becomes. Here, I've tried to interweave and contrast body, baby, and food smells as culturally defined.</p><p>This has been kind of a fever dream of a piece of writing, and I apologize for that. And as a single mom alone with a newborn–infant–toddler who doesn't talk much yet. But here we are, 2-plus years into an unending pandemic, and I can't smell. 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In Ontario, there's no more free COVID testing unless you are part of a vulnerable population, and a single mother in a pandemic is no longer considered vulnerable enough. Earlier that day I had seen a United States–based friend's social media post about how COVID tests are being distributed through vending machines all over the University of California, Los Angeles campus. Having lived in California only a year and a half prior, the pictures of privilege hit me hard. Following provincial guidelines, I had to just go ahead and assume I had it.</p><p>I finished changing Sophie and took her to my room while I closed my eyes and played <i>Cocomelon</i> on my phone. Surviving our quarantine meant trying to get a little more half sleep before the day begins. Sophie had taken to looking at me and saying, “Mommy sleeping.” She wasn't kidding, and she definitely did some astute social commentary. More like “Mommy zombie.”</p><p>In 2017, I published a book that emerged from my own anxiety around growing up a “smelly immigrant,” or more specifically a “smelly Pakistani” (Ameeriar, <span>2017</span>). The anxiety was so great that I would fight with my mother when she cooked South Asian food—food that now, 4 years after her death, I wish I could ask her to make. I carried Secret antiperspirant in my backpack in high school, constantly reapplying during the day during those anxious, sweaty years when we're learning to become adults.</p><p>The pandemic has been weird. It's been weird for everybody, and for me it's meant a radical shift in my relationship to my body. A body that still hasn't fully recovered from the experience of birth. Bodily scars have more or less healed, but the body I inhabit is no longer mine. Or no longer just mine. I share it. I swore I would stop breastfeeding when my daughter turned 1, but then the vaccine was coming and evidence seemed to support that antibodies could be passed to infants through breastmilk, so I didn't wean. Then I imagined a hard deadline at 2, but the booster was supposed to pass antibodies to protect from Omicron, and the vaccine wasn't approved yet for those under 5. So, I waited again. It's been a month since I was boosted. We got COVID anyway.</p><p>But the most radical thing that happened to me during the pandemic was that I stopped wearing deodorant. It just kind of happened. I was living in London, England, when I got pregnant. They don't have good deodorant there anyway, but once you start sharing your body, and the Apple News app learns you're pregnant, you start seeing horror stories about products and the damage they can do to the fetus. It's horrifying, but I felt a bit up against a wall. The United Kingdom doesn't have the same air-conditioning practices that North America does, and so I was sweaty. I would go to movies in the summer months, pregnant and uncomfortable, seeking air-conditioning, but the British don't turn it up very high. I remember several times leaving a theater along with an American or Australian seeking out an employee to ask them to turn it up. So I bought Tom's of Maine natural deodorant, which honestly was worse than not wearing deodorant at all because then I smelled like sweat and chemical lavender. I didn't intend to stop wearing deodorant, it just happened over time until one day I realized I wasn't and hadn't been for a long time. Even as an adult I used to anxiously buy deodorant, stocking up, with extra bottles in the closet. The anxiety followed me as I continued trying to be an adult past childhood and my sweaty teenage years.</p><p>Smell, as I've written elsewhere, is emblematic of non-belonging (Ameeriar, <span>2017</span>). Martin Manalansan IV (<span>2006</span>) has discussed food smells as a basis of Othering immigrant bodies, and Aihwa Ong (<span>2003</span>) has written about how smells, unlike offensive bodies, cannot be contained, so the focus on offensive smells represents anxiety over managing refugee bodies in public space. Sareeta Amrute (<span>2018</span>) has beautifully written on the politics of disgust and the ways it is infused in everyday life and (<span>2020</span>) on “the sensate” to track the ways immigrants align, distance themselves from, and register the larger sociopolitical and economic contexts in which they are enfolded.</p><p>But what difference did the pandemic make to our ideas of smell? What would it mean if we continued not to smell—would it lead to greater equality? What would it mean if we couldn't smell other people? We live our lives on social media, especially these days and I'm a member of about a million mom groups, including one for working moms in Toronto that I joined during the pandemic. Not the best time for an international move. I read a post a few weeks ago where a white Canadian woman said she was putting together a workshop for international students on Canadian workplace etiquette and was wondering if any professional people had advice. She asked specifically for examples of cultural differences causing confusion or misunderstanding. There were 91 comments. Numerous white women responded by saying food at lunchtime. Story after story of people complaining that the food someone in their workplace was bringing “had a VERY strong smell,” to quote one post, and that other workers couldn't stay in the same area. Others pushed back on that kind of comment, saying food is cultural and that Canadians are closed-minded. Another woman chimed in that her 5-year-old niece in the United States was bullied for bringing South Asian food to school and refused to eat lunch for a week. Someone posted advice on looking at one's own privilege when one is uncomfortable with food smells. Someone invoked “hot climate cultures” and “cold climate cultures.” Someone mentioned perfumes and others hygiene for new immigrants (!). One woman said that her husband has had to have “difficult conversations” with employees regarding their hygiene, especially, she says, if he knows it's a “cultural behavior.” For the love of God.</p><p>In that same thread, some women of color themselves recommended nicknames or changing names to mask where you're from, making yourself once again into someone who won't be discriminated against. In the mid-2000s, I did my dissertation fieldwork that formed the basis of my book on smell. I went with women to job-finding seminars in which they were told not to show up “smelling like foreign food,” and yet at the same time within the same organizations were expected to participate in cultural festivals where the same foods and food smells that were so reviled were celebrated. The more things change, huh.</p><p>Being forced to stay inside, being quarantined, having the outside parts of our world shut down, did nothing to quell these enduring ideas about smell and Otherness. And that to me is the central failure, that these smells and comportments are just dystopic fantasy projections of an imagined threat, a peril threatening the white workplace. We could imagine a world in which smells are erased, in the style of a science fiction story like <i>Blindness</i> by José Saramago (<span>1997</span>) in which there is a mass epidemic of blindness that creates social chaos. Rather than creating a utopian space in which we transcend such differences because they seemingly no longer exist, I argue that differences would still matter because smell is just a guise for a deeper feeling, a disgust and fear, fear of the Other, fear of losing power.</p><p>Smell is about morality and moralizing, about constructing visions, dreams, images, selves. It's tied to class, race, gender, everything. It's a medium through which people judge others, as evidenced by that disturbing thread on the local moms at work page. Remember, we're defining the self <i>and</i> Other through difference (Low, <span>2005</span>). Constance Classen, David Howes, and Anthony Synnott (<span>1994</span>) have discussed smell and savagery and, to reference Koichi Iwabuchi (<span>2002</span>), what's called on for workers in the global market is the sweet scent of Asian modernity, which it turns out after all these years is still no scent at all. I digress—I spend most of my time with a tiny human only learning to talk who is more interested in animal sounds than what I have to say about smells.</p><p>As I said earlier, my body is no longer my own. I'm often partially clothed, running from one room to another. I'm always quietly strategizing my morning, like how to streamline getting dressed with fewer tears, mine and hers. It's hard to get a small human body ready as well as my own, and I'm only changing from one set of pajamas to sweats, but if I don't do it, I don't know. I need to do it. I can no longer control when I can go to the bathroom. We live in a small house in a super-white neighborhood. A good neighborhood for kids, I had thought, but the problem with living in the good neighborhood with all the stuff is all the darn privileged people. 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引用次数: 0

摘要

但是,大流行对我们的嗅觉观念有什么影响?如果我们继续不闻气味,这意味着什么--会带来更大的平等吗?如果我们闻不到其他人的气味又意味着什么?我们生活在社交媒体上,尤其是现在,我加入了大约一百万个妈妈群组,其中包括一个在多伦多工作的妈妈群组,我是在大流行期间加入的。这可不是国际搬家的最佳时机。几周前,我读到一篇帖子,一位加拿大白人妇女说,她正在为留学生组织一个关于加拿大职场礼仪的研讨会,想知道是否有专业人士提供建议。她特别询问了文化差异造成混乱或误解的例子。共有 91 条评论。许多白人女性在回复中提到了午餐时间的食物。一个又一个的故事告诉我们,有人抱怨他们工作场所的某个人带来的食物 "气味非常浓烈"(引用一个帖子的话),而且其他工人不能待在同一区域。也有人反驳这种说法,说食物是一种文化,加拿大人思想封闭。另一位妇女说,她在美国的 5 岁侄女因为带南亚食物到学校而受到欺负,一个星期都拒绝吃午餐。有人发帖建议,当一个人对食物气味感到不舒服时,应该审视自己的特权。有人提到了 "炎热气候文化 "和 "寒冷气候文化"。有人提到了香水和其他新移民的卫生问题(!)。一位女士说,她的丈夫不得不与员工就他们的卫生问题进行 "艰难的对话",她说,尤其是在他知道这是一种 "文化行为 "的情况下。在同一主题中,一些有色人种女性自己也建议使用昵称或改名来掩饰自己的出身,让自己再次成为一个不会受到歧视的人。2000 年代中期,我完成了论文的实地调查,这也是我撰写《嗅觉》一书的基础。我和妇女们一起参加求职研讨会,她们被告知不要带着 "外国食物的味道 "出现,但与此同时,在同样的组织里,她们却要参加文化节,在那里,同样的食物和食物的味道被肆意践踏。我们被迫呆在屋子里,被隔离起来,我们世界的外部部分被关闭,但这丝毫不能平息这些关于气味和他者性的持久观念。在我看来,这才是核心的失败之处,这些气味和装饰品只是对一种想象中的威胁、一种威胁白人工作场所的危险的歇斯底里的幻想投射。我们可以想象一个抹去气味的世界,就像何塞-萨拉马戈(José Saramago,1997 年出版的科幻小说《失明》(Blindness)那样,在这个世界里,失明症大规模流行,造成了社会混乱。我并不是要创造一个乌托邦空间,让我们超越这些差异,因为它们似乎已不复存在,而是认为差异仍然重要,因为气味只是一种更深层感受的伪装,一种厌恶和恐惧,对他者的恐惧,对失去权力的恐惧。它与阶级、种族、性别等一切因素息息相关。它是人们评判他人的一种媒介,本地 "工作中的妈妈 "页面上那条令人不安的帖子就是证明。记住,我们是通过差异来定义自我和他人的(Low,2005 年)。Constance Classen、David Howes 和 Anthony Synnott(1994 年)曾讨论过气味和野蛮,参照 Koichi Iwabuchi(2002 年)的观点,在全球市场中,工人们需要的是亚洲现代性的甜美气味,但这么多年过去了,这种气味仍然没有任何作用。我想说的是,我大部分时间都和一个刚刚学会说话的小人儿在一起,她对动物的声音比我对气味的看法更感兴趣。我经常衣衫不整地从一个房间跑到另一个房间。我总是悄悄地为我的早晨制定策略,比如如何简化穿衣程序,减少我和她的眼泪。要让一个小小的身体和我自己一样准备好是很难的,我只是从一套睡衣换到运动服,但如果我不这样做,我就不知道了。我必须这么做。我再也无法控制自己什么时候可以上厕所了。我们住在一个超级白人社区的小房子里。我本以为这是个适合孩子们居住的好社区,但问题是,住在好社区里的所有东西都是那些该死的特权人士的。我们家的浴室在二楼,在这些隔离的日子里,我必须计算好什么时候可以去:她刚睡醒时我去接她之前、我给她换午睡的时候、她午睡的时候(如果她午睡的话)、她坐在高脚椅上吃饭的时候,或者她上床睡觉之后。紧急情况是不允许的。在尝试为人父母的过程中,失去感觉是很奇怪的,因为为人父母是一种感官体验。
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Smelling

I stumbled bleary-eyed into my daughter's nursery as I'd done a million times in the past 2 years. Pulled off her sleep sack as she jumped up and down. “Mommy, Mommy.” Something seemed weird. As I began to change her diaper, I was surprised to see a poop blowout. Then I realized it: I couldn't smell.

It happened to me. I'm one of those. She had come home from daycare with a fever about 10 days before. A few days later, I had what felt like a bad cold. In Ontario, there's no more free COVID testing unless you are part of a vulnerable population, and a single mother in a pandemic is no longer considered vulnerable enough. Earlier that day I had seen a United States–based friend's social media post about how COVID tests are being distributed through vending machines all over the University of California, Los Angeles campus. Having lived in California only a year and a half prior, the pictures of privilege hit me hard. Following provincial guidelines, I had to just go ahead and assume I had it.

I finished changing Sophie and took her to my room while I closed my eyes and played Cocomelon on my phone. Surviving our quarantine meant trying to get a little more half sleep before the day begins. Sophie had taken to looking at me and saying, “Mommy sleeping.” She wasn't kidding, and she definitely did some astute social commentary. More like “Mommy zombie.”

In 2017, I published a book that emerged from my own anxiety around growing up a “smelly immigrant,” or more specifically a “smelly Pakistani” (Ameeriar, 2017). The anxiety was so great that I would fight with my mother when she cooked South Asian food—food that now, 4 years after her death, I wish I could ask her to make. I carried Secret antiperspirant in my backpack in high school, constantly reapplying during the day during those anxious, sweaty years when we're learning to become adults.

The pandemic has been weird. It's been weird for everybody, and for me it's meant a radical shift in my relationship to my body. A body that still hasn't fully recovered from the experience of birth. Bodily scars have more or less healed, but the body I inhabit is no longer mine. Or no longer just mine. I share it. I swore I would stop breastfeeding when my daughter turned 1, but then the vaccine was coming and evidence seemed to support that antibodies could be passed to infants through breastmilk, so I didn't wean. Then I imagined a hard deadline at 2, but the booster was supposed to pass antibodies to protect from Omicron, and the vaccine wasn't approved yet for those under 5. So, I waited again. It's been a month since I was boosted. We got COVID anyway.

But the most radical thing that happened to me during the pandemic was that I stopped wearing deodorant. It just kind of happened. I was living in London, England, when I got pregnant. They don't have good deodorant there anyway, but once you start sharing your body, and the Apple News app learns you're pregnant, you start seeing horror stories about products and the damage they can do to the fetus. It's horrifying, but I felt a bit up against a wall. The United Kingdom doesn't have the same air-conditioning practices that North America does, and so I was sweaty. I would go to movies in the summer months, pregnant and uncomfortable, seeking air-conditioning, but the British don't turn it up very high. I remember several times leaving a theater along with an American or Australian seeking out an employee to ask them to turn it up. So I bought Tom's of Maine natural deodorant, which honestly was worse than not wearing deodorant at all because then I smelled like sweat and chemical lavender. I didn't intend to stop wearing deodorant, it just happened over time until one day I realized I wasn't and hadn't been for a long time. Even as an adult I used to anxiously buy deodorant, stocking up, with extra bottles in the closet. The anxiety followed me as I continued trying to be an adult past childhood and my sweaty teenage years.

Smell, as I've written elsewhere, is emblematic of non-belonging (Ameeriar, 2017). Martin Manalansan IV (2006) has discussed food smells as a basis of Othering immigrant bodies, and Aihwa Ong (2003) has written about how smells, unlike offensive bodies, cannot be contained, so the focus on offensive smells represents anxiety over managing refugee bodies in public space. Sareeta Amrute (2018) has beautifully written on the politics of disgust and the ways it is infused in everyday life and (2020) on “the sensate” to track the ways immigrants align, distance themselves from, and register the larger sociopolitical and economic contexts in which they are enfolded.

But what difference did the pandemic make to our ideas of smell? What would it mean if we continued not to smell—would it lead to greater equality? What would it mean if we couldn't smell other people? We live our lives on social media, especially these days and I'm a member of about a million mom groups, including one for working moms in Toronto that I joined during the pandemic. Not the best time for an international move. I read a post a few weeks ago where a white Canadian woman said she was putting together a workshop for international students on Canadian workplace etiquette and was wondering if any professional people had advice. She asked specifically for examples of cultural differences causing confusion or misunderstanding. There were 91 comments. Numerous white women responded by saying food at lunchtime. Story after story of people complaining that the food someone in their workplace was bringing “had a VERY strong smell,” to quote one post, and that other workers couldn't stay in the same area. Others pushed back on that kind of comment, saying food is cultural and that Canadians are closed-minded. Another woman chimed in that her 5-year-old niece in the United States was bullied for bringing South Asian food to school and refused to eat lunch for a week. Someone posted advice on looking at one's own privilege when one is uncomfortable with food smells. Someone invoked “hot climate cultures” and “cold climate cultures.” Someone mentioned perfumes and others hygiene for new immigrants (!). One woman said that her husband has had to have “difficult conversations” with employees regarding their hygiene, especially, she says, if he knows it's a “cultural behavior.” For the love of God.

In that same thread, some women of color themselves recommended nicknames or changing names to mask where you're from, making yourself once again into someone who won't be discriminated against. In the mid-2000s, I did my dissertation fieldwork that formed the basis of my book on smell. I went with women to job-finding seminars in which they were told not to show up “smelling like foreign food,” and yet at the same time within the same organizations were expected to participate in cultural festivals where the same foods and food smells that were so reviled were celebrated. The more things change, huh.

Being forced to stay inside, being quarantined, having the outside parts of our world shut down, did nothing to quell these enduring ideas about smell and Otherness. And that to me is the central failure, that these smells and comportments are just dystopic fantasy projections of an imagined threat, a peril threatening the white workplace. We could imagine a world in which smells are erased, in the style of a science fiction story like Blindness by José Saramago (1997) in which there is a mass epidemic of blindness that creates social chaos. Rather than creating a utopian space in which we transcend such differences because they seemingly no longer exist, I argue that differences would still matter because smell is just a guise for a deeper feeling, a disgust and fear, fear of the Other, fear of losing power.

Smell is about morality and moralizing, about constructing visions, dreams, images, selves. It's tied to class, race, gender, everything. It's a medium through which people judge others, as evidenced by that disturbing thread on the local moms at work page. Remember, we're defining the self and Other through difference (Low, 2005). Constance Classen, David Howes, and Anthony Synnott (1994) have discussed smell and savagery and, to reference Koichi Iwabuchi (2002), what's called on for workers in the global market is the sweet scent of Asian modernity, which it turns out after all these years is still no scent at all. I digress—I spend most of my time with a tiny human only learning to talk who is more interested in animal sounds than what I have to say about smells.

As I said earlier, my body is no longer my own. I'm often partially clothed, running from one room to another. I'm always quietly strategizing my morning, like how to streamline getting dressed with fewer tears, mine and hers. It's hard to get a small human body ready as well as my own, and I'm only changing from one set of pajamas to sweats, but if I don't do it, I don't know. I need to do it. I can no longer control when I can go to the bathroom. We live in a small house in a super-white neighborhood. A good neighborhood for kids, I had thought, but the problem with living in the good neighborhood with all the stuff is all the darn privileged people. Our bathroom is on the second floor, and during these quarantine days I have to calculate when I can go: before I get her when she first wakes, when I change her to nap, while she naps (if she naps), while she's in the high chair for meals, or after she goes to bed. Emergencies are not allowed.

Losing a sense while trying to navigate parenthood, which is such a sensorial experience, has been weird. The most freakish thing has been that I can't smell her. I yearned for my lost smell to smell her small body. My tiny roommate of the past 2 years. Kids produce smells to make us love them. Or something. I'm not that kind of a scientist. Today I leaned in really close to the peach popsicle she insisted on eating, even though it's −15°C. A faint blush of something. Got it, but dull. I smelled three things today: peach popsicle, faint poop from what should have been intense poop, and my armpit. I checked again.

The connection between the senses and mothering speaks to the embodied experience of not only motherhood but close relations of all kinds where fluid and touch are exchanged and relied upon as a life source. The cultural marking of COVID also has a role to play in what a body is and becomes. Here, I've tried to interweave and contrast body, baby, and food smells as culturally defined.

This has been kind of a fever dream of a piece of writing, and I apologize for that. And as a single mom alone with a newborn–infant–toddler who doesn't talk much yet. But here we are, 2-plus years into an unending pandemic, and I can't smell. I hope it comes back.

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