时尚与形象:19世纪哥伦比亚的人类学元素

IF 0.3 4区 艺术学 0 ART Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI:10.1093/jdh/epac050
Jairo Bermúdez-Castillo, Astrid Barrios Barraza, Claudia Patricia Delgado Osorio, Maristela Verastegui
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引用次数: 0

摘要

这篇文章是一个关于十九世纪哥伦比亚民族创建过程中形象作用的研究项目的产物。这种形象部分取决于它所识别的个人,他们的社会地位、生活方式和职业。时尚形象作为一种特有的社会标识,作为一种标志,承载着人类学的符号。在19世纪的哥伦比亚,这些象征与共和国身份联系在一起,其特征是殖民遗产,由种族决定,并由特定社会阶层的独特服装决定:以前是臣民,后来是公民。因此,时尚作为共和祖先、精英和人民的“皮肤中的皮肤”所传达的形象构成了一种涵盖一切的遗产,从纺织品制造和土著ruana到一种具有欧洲血统的纺织品mestizaje。来自博物馆、图书馆和档案馆的藏品与旅行者和插画家撰写的文本进行了比较,以揭示19世纪哥伦比亚时尚景观中出现的民族认同元素。
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Fashion and Image as Anthropographic Elements in Nineteenth-century Colombia
Abstract This article is the product of a research project about the role of image in the creation of the Colombian nation during the nineteenth century. Part of that image depended on the individuals it identified, their social status, their lifestyle, and their occupation. The image of fashion as a characteristic social identifier, as an icon, was a bearer of anthropographic symbols. In nineteenth-century Colombia, those symbols were connected to a republican identity characterized by its colonial heritage, determined by race, and by garments distinctive of specific social classes: formerly subjects and, later, citizens. Thus, the image that fashion conveyed as the “skin of the skin” of the republican ancestors, the elite, and the people constitutes a legacy that encompasses everything, from the manufacture of textiles and the indigenous ruana, to a kind of textile mestizaje with aspects of European provenance. Items from collections in museums, libraries, and archives, were compared to texts composed by travelers and illustrators, in order to unveil elements of national identity in what emerges as the landscape of fashion in Colombia during the nineteenth century.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
0.60
自引率
0.00%
发文量
46
期刊介绍: Journal of Design History is a leading journal in its field. It plays an active role in the development of design history (including the history of the crafts and applied arts), as well as contributing to the broader field of studies of visual and material culture. The journal includes a regular book reviews section and lists books received, and from time to time publishes special issues.
期刊最新文献
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