设计 "瑞典特色

Petra Dotlacilova
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摘要

本文探讨了古斯塔夫三世(1771-1792 年)统治时期瑞典服装设计的早期发展。瑞典国王从执政之初就有意识地积极发展当地文化事业,资助瑞典皇家歌剧院和其他机构,并亲自创作和演出戏剧作品。他还对作品的场景设计进行干预,并对服饰非常感兴趣,经常利用服饰来达到自己的政治目的。他不仅将戏剧和服饰作为审美对象,还将其作为在民众中营造瑞典民族认同感的工具。因此,服装设计的 "瑞典性 "主要与最初以瑞典为主题的戏剧所表现的主题有关:历史人物和来自瑞典不同地区的人物。另一方面,用于创造这种瑞典设计的设计师和形式通常都是从国外,尤其是从法国和意大利引进和改编的。本研究采用跨国视角和以材料为导向的方法,考察了瑞典服装制作的某些策略和里程碑,强调了国际交流,同时也展示了适应当地舞台的独特案例。
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Designing ‘Swedishness’
This article explores the early development of Swedish costume design during the reign of Gustav III (1771-1792). From the beginning of his rule, the Swedish king consciously and actively developed the local cultural scene, funded the Swedish Royal Opera and other institutions, as well as wrote and performed theatrical works himself. He also intervened in the scenography of pieces and was very interested in dress in general, using it often for his political aims. Theatre and dress were not only treated as aesthetic objects, but also as tools for creating a sense of Swedish national identity among the people. The ‘Swedishness’ of costume design is thus primarily connected to the subjects represented in those initial plays which addressed Swedish themes: historical figures and people from different Swedish regions. On the other hand, both the designers and forms used to create this Swedish design were often imported and adapted from abroad, especially from France and Italy. Using a transnational perspective and material-oriented approach, this study examines certain strategies and milestones in Swedish costume making, highlighting international exchange, but also showing unique cases of adaptation to the local stage.
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