21 世纪非洲服饰、服饰文化、化妆和人体设计的理论、概念和分类

T. Utoh-Ezeajugh
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摘要

学术界对非洲服饰文化和人体设计的研究,大多采用非非洲经验和理论来审视本土习俗。这限制了身份的文化表达,无意中暴露了围绕非洲传统设计参与和本土概念模型进行论述的必要性。本研究采用定性研究方法中的分析、描述和解释方法,对非洲本土和当代的着装、服饰、化妆和人体设计进行概念化、分类和描述。重点是日常生活、特殊场合、舞台、电影、嘉年华会、街头表演和传统社区表演中使用的服饰/礼服/服装、人体设计、服装和化妆做法。在本研究中,研究人员对目前用于描述非洲服饰的 "服饰 "一词进行了解构。它试图从艺术和历史的三个层面对服装进行理解和分类,这三个层面是:本土传统设计(本土传统)、现代传统设计(现代传统)和当代传统设计(当代传统)。鉴于现有学术界对传统服饰文化和人体装饰的介绍存在差距,本报告认为应鼓励非洲学者通过进一步构建本土文化产品的特性来扩大讨论范围。
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Theories, concepts and classifications of African costumes, dress culture, make-up and body designs in the 21st century
Scholarly interrogations of African dress culture and body designs have mostly engaged non-African experiences and theories in  interrogating indigenous practices. This has placed a limitation on cultural expressions of identity and inadvertently exposed the need to  frame discourses around traditional African design engagements and indigenous conceptual models. The study employs the analytical,  descriptive and interpretative approach of the qualitative research methodology to conceptualise, classify and describe the indigenous  and contemporary practice of dressing, costuming and make-up and body designs in Africa. The emphasis is on attires/dresses/clothing,  body designs, costumes and make-up practices utilised in everyday life; on special occasions; on stage; in films; carnivals; street  performances and traditional communal performances. In this study, the researcher deconstructs the term ‘costume’ as currently used  in describing African dressing. It attempts an understanding and classification of costumes from three levels of artistic and historical  distinctions which are; indigenous traditional designs (indigenous trad.); modern traditional designs (modern trad.); and contemporary  traditional designs (contemporary trad.). Given the identified gaps in existing scholarly presentations on traditional dress culture and  body adornment, it maintains that African scholars should be encouraged to expand the scope of discourse through further  constructions of identity for indigenous cultural products.   
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