带渗透层的边缘礁次重力波流体力学数值研究

IF 2.1 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Continental Shelf Research Pub Date : 2024-04-01 DOI:10.1016/j.csr.2024.105212
K. Qu, X. Wang, Y. Yao, J. Men, R.Z. Gao
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引用次数: 0

摘要

在热带和亚热带沿海地区,珊瑚礁资源丰富,在维持生态系统平衡方面发挥着重要作用。此外,珊瑚礁还能有效消散从公海向海岸线传播的大量波能,为沿海地区提供抵御波浪冲击的保护。因此,许多学者对波浪在珊瑚礁地形上传播和转化的水动力特性进行了大量研究。然而,以往的研究往往将珊瑚礁的底部边界简化为不透水层,忽视了实际海洋环境中珊瑚礁由透水冠层结构组成的事实。为填补以往研究的知识空白,本研究基于非流体静力学波模型求解器(NHWAVE),对随机波在透水珊瑚礁上的传播过程进行数值模拟。研究采用综合方法,考虑了各种因素对珊瑚礁上随机波流体力学特性的影响,包括入射波高、礁平水深、波峰周期、渗透层厚度、渗透层孔隙率和渗透层中值直径。本文主要分析了海涌波高(HSS)、次重力波高(HIG)和平均水位(MWL)沿挡礁的变化,同时对有渗透层的挡礁和无渗透层的挡礁进行了对比分析。研究结果表明,透水层的存在减少了波浪在前礁斜坡上的浅水变形,减轻了礁石边缘附近的破浪现象,从而显著降低了礁盘上的海涌波高(HSS)、次重力波高(HIG)和波浪设置。此外,透水层的存在还导致了后礁斜坡上最大波浪上升高度的降低。本研究的结果可以进一步加深我们对边缘礁上次重力波的水动力特性的理解,对研究随机波对沿海地区的影响和了解沿海地区珊瑚礁的保护机制具有重要意义。
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Numerical investigation of infragravity wave hydrodynamics at fringing reef with a permeable layer

In tropical and subtropical coastal regions, coral reefs are abundant and play a vital role in maintaining ecosystem balance. Additionally, they effectively dissipate a significant amount of wave energy that propagates from the open sea towards the coastline, providing coastal areas with protection against wave impacts. Consequently, numerous scholars have conducted extensive research to investigate the hydrodynamic characteristics of wave propagation and transformation over coral reef topography. However, previous studies have often simplified the bottom boundary of coral reefs as impermeable layers, neglecting the fact that the coral reef consists of a permeable canopy structure in the actual marine environment. To fill the knowledge gap of previous research, this study is based on the Non-Hydrostatic Wave Model Solver (NHWAVE) to numerically simulate the propagation process of random waves over permeable coral fringing reefs. The study takes a comprehensive approach by considering the influences of various factors on the hydrodynamic characteristics of random waves over the fringing reef, including incident wave height, reef-flat water depth, peak wave period, permeable layer thickness, permeable layer porosity, and median diameter of the permeable layer. This paper focuses primarily on analyzing the variations in sea-swell wave height (HSS), infragravity wave height (HIG), and mean water level (MWL) along the fringing reef, while conducting a comparative analysis between fringing reefs with a permeable layer and impermeable fringing reefs. The findings reveal that the presence of a permeable layer reduces the shallow water deformation of waves on the fore-reef slope and mitigates the wave-breaking phenomenon near the reef edge, thereby significantly reducing the sea-swell wave height (HSS), infragravity wave height (HIG), and wave setup on the reef-flat. Furthermore, the permeable layer's existence also leads to a decrease in the maximum wave run-up height on the back-reef slope. The research findings of this study can further enhance our understanding of the hydrodynamic characteristics of infragravity waves over fringing reefs, which is significant for studying the impact of random waves on coastal areas and understanding the protective mechanisms of coral reefs in coastal regions.

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来源期刊
Continental Shelf Research
Continental Shelf Research 地学-海洋学
CiteScore
4.30
自引率
4.30%
发文量
136
审稿时长
6.1 months
期刊介绍: Continental Shelf Research publishes articles dealing with the biological, chemical, geological and physical oceanography of the shallow marine environment, from coastal and estuarine waters out to the shelf break. The continental shelf is a critical environment within the land-ocean continuum, and many processes, functions and problems in the continental shelf are driven by terrestrial inputs transported through the rivers and estuaries to the coastal and continental shelf areas. Manuscripts that deal with these topics must make a clear link to the continental shelf. Examples of research areas include: Physical sedimentology and geomorphology Geochemistry of the coastal ocean (inorganic and organic) Marine environment and anthropogenic effects Interaction of physical dynamics with natural and manmade shoreline features Benthic, phytoplankton and zooplankton ecology Coastal water and sediment quality, and ecosystem health Benthic-pelagic coupling (physical and biogeochemical) Interactions between physical dynamics (waves, currents, mixing, etc.) and biogeochemical cycles Estuarine, coastal and shelf sea modelling and process studies.
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