Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches

REICHERT, K. and LUND, B., 2007. Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), pg – pg. Gold Coast, Australia, ISBN The wave monitoring system WaMoS II was developed for real time measurements of directional ocean wave spectra. The system is based on a standard marine X-band radar and can be operated to monitor the sea state from fixed platforms, in coastal areas or from moving vessels. In contrary to wave buoys it allows for temporal and spatial wave analysis. Wave data are needed in coastal areas to help increase safety of ship navigation and improve coastal protection strategies. This paper presents data obtained from the island of Sylt, Germany and at the entrance to Port Phillip Bay, Australia. Both regions are characterised by a complex bottom topography that leads to a highly spatially variable wave field. The wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling, and dissipation are described and quantified. WaMoS II proves to be a powerful tool to monitor changes of sea state caused by local topography.