Screening and characterization of cosmetic efficacy components of Terminalia chebula based on biological activity-guided methodology

Terminalia chebula exhibits a high level of antioxidant capacity and is highly valued in medicine and cosmetics. However, its main efficacy and active ingredients related to antioxidant, whitening, and anti-aging are still unclear. In this study, the active site responsible for its cosmetic efficacy was specified by the biological activity-guided method and further characterized by using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-QTOF-MS/MS). T. chebula was ultrasonically extracted by five solvents, and 30% ethanol extract was screened out for subsequent purification by 1,1-D-iphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH), 2,2′-Azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonate) (ABTS), hydroxyl, and superoxide anion free radical scavenging assays. Five elution fractions were obtained by column chromatography on D101 macroporous adsorbent resin eluted by an increased proportion of ethanol. The 30% ethanol elution fraction was specified as the enrichment site of active ingredients showing good antioxidant capacity and potent inhibitory activity against tyrosinase and elastase. A total of 30 compounds were identified by UHPLC-QTOF-MS/MS in the 30% ethanol elution fraction, including 11 gallotannins, 14 ellagitannins, and 5 other compounds, and these compounds may be the key ingredients in cosmetics beneficial for the skin. Such a biological activity-guided method has provided a simple and rapid venue for specifying the components of medicinal herbs responsible for cosmetic efficacy.