Ratan K Chaudhuri, Thomas A Meyer, Rachel Blinder, Martin Vethamuthu, Valerie George, Adebayo A Adeniyi, Neha Manhas, Parvesh Singh
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Moreover, after hair has been dyed, regular exposure to the sun as a key environmental stressor continues to stimulate additional oxidative damage and to induce newly developed hair colours to fade prematurely or undergo changes in colour quality.</p><p><strong>Objective: </strong>To document the utility of acetyl zingerone methyl ether (MAZ) as a newly designed haircare ingredient to afford extra protection against oxidative damage and safeguard the integrity of hair colour.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>We demonstrate that MAZ is compatible chemically with the high alkaline conditions required for the colouring process and from theoretical calculations preferentially binds Fe and Cu ions relative to Ca or Zn ions. In model Fenton reactions MAZ effectively chelated active redox metals (Fe and Cu ions) in the presence of excess Ca<sup>+2</sup> ions to inhibit the production of hydroxyl radicals, and in separate studies, MAZ neutralized singlet oxygen with greater efficiency than α-tocopherol by a factor of 2.5. When mixed into permanent dyes prior to hair tress application, MAZ significantly reduced combing forces, and SEM images led to substantial reductions in visual signs of surface damage. In a 28-day clinical study, relative to controls, mixing MAZ into hair dyes prior to application interfered neither with colour development nor with ability to cover grey hair and led to significant improvements in perceived attributes associated with hair's condition immediately following the dyeing process. Over a 28-day maintenance phase, especially between Day 14 and Day 28, continued use of shampoo and conditioner containing MAZ significantly preserved gloss measurements and hair colour in terms of longevity and colour quality as remaining desired and fresh compared to use of control shampoo and conditioner.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This work establishes MAZ as a next-generation hair care ingredient for use in permanent dyes to attenuate oxidative damage and in shampoos and conditioners to promote longevity of hair colour and to maintain overall health and appearance of hair on a daily basis.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7000,"publicationDate":"2024-08-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Acetyl zingerone methyl ether protects hair against oxidative damage incurred during and after treatment with permanent dyes and helps extend longevity of newly developed hair colour.\",\"authors\":\"Ratan K Chaudhuri, Thomas A Meyer, Rachel Blinder, Martin Vethamuthu, Valerie George, Adebayo A Adeniyi, Neha Manhas, Parvesh Singh\",\"doi\":\"10.1111/ics.13000\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<p><strong>Background: </strong>Use of permanent hair dyes causes unintended oxidative damage during the short time frame of the dyeing process that leads to perceivable changes in the feel, manageability and appearance of hair. Moreover, after hair has been dyed, regular exposure to the sun as a key environmental stressor continues to stimulate additional oxidative damage and to induce newly developed hair colours to fade prematurely or undergo changes in colour quality.</p><p><strong>Objective: </strong>To document the utility of acetyl zingerone methyl ether (MAZ) as a newly designed haircare ingredient to afford extra protection against oxidative damage and safeguard the integrity of hair colour.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>We demonstrate that MAZ is compatible chemically with the high alkaline conditions required for the colouring process and from theoretical calculations preferentially binds Fe and Cu ions relative to Ca or Zn ions. In model Fenton reactions MAZ effectively chelated active redox metals (Fe and Cu ions) in the presence of excess Ca<sup>+2</sup> ions to inhibit the production of hydroxyl radicals, and in separate studies, MAZ neutralized singlet oxygen with greater efficiency than α-tocopherol by a factor of 2.5. When mixed into permanent dyes prior to hair tress application, MAZ significantly reduced combing forces, and SEM images led to substantial reductions in visual signs of surface damage. In a 28-day clinical study, relative to controls, mixing MAZ into hair dyes prior to application interfered neither with colour development nor with ability to cover grey hair and led to significant improvements in perceived attributes associated with hair's condition immediately following the dyeing process. Over a 28-day maintenance phase, especially between Day 14 and Day 28, continued use of shampoo and conditioner containing MAZ significantly preserved gloss measurements and hair colour in terms of longevity and colour quality as remaining desired and fresh compared to use of control shampoo and conditioner.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This work establishes MAZ as a next-generation hair care ingredient for use in permanent dyes to attenuate oxidative damage and in shampoos and conditioners to promote longevity of hair colour and to maintain overall health and appearance of hair on a daily basis.</p>\",\"PeriodicalId\":13936,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"International Journal of Cosmetic Science\",\"volume\":\" \",\"pages\":\"\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":2.7000,\"publicationDate\":\"2024-08-12\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"International Journal of Cosmetic Science\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"3\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13000\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"医学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"DERMATOLOGY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","FirstCategoryId":"3","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13000","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"DERMATOLOGY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
摘要
背景:使用永久性染发剂会在染发过程的短时间内造成意外的氧化损伤,导致头发的触感、易打理性和外观发生明显变化。此外,染发后,经常暴露在阳光下作为一种主要的环境压力源,会继续刺激更多的氧化损伤,并导致新染发颜色过早褪色或颜色质量发生变化:目的:记录乙酰辛格酮甲醚(MAZ)作为一种新设计的护发成分的效用,以提供额外的保护,防止氧化损伤并保护发色的完整性:结果:我们证明 MAZ 与染发过程所需的高碱性条件具有化学兼容性,而且根据理论计算,相对于 Ca 或 Zn 离子,MAZ 更倾向于结合 Fe 和 Cu 离子。在模型芬顿反应中,MAZ 能在过量 Ca+2 离子存在的情况下有效螯合活性氧化还原金属(Fe 和 Cu 离子),从而抑制羟基自由基的产生;在单独的研究中,MAZ 中和单线态氧的效率比 α-生育酚高 2.5 倍。在涂抹发丝前将 MAZ 混入永久性染发剂中,MAZ 能显著降低梳理力,扫描电镜图像也能显著减少表面损伤的视觉痕迹。在一项为期 28 天的临床研究中,与对照组相比,在使用染发剂前将 MAZ 混入染发剂中既不会影响染发剂的显色效果,也不会影响遮盖白发的能力,而且在染发过程结束后,与头发状况相关的感知属性会立即得到明显改善。在 28 天的维持阶段,特别是在第 14 天和第 28 天之间,与使用对照组洗发水和护发素相比,持续使用含有 MAZ 的洗发水和护发素可显著保持光泽度测量值和发色,在持久性和发色质量方面保持理想和新鲜:这项研究将 MAZ 定义为新一代护发成分,可用于永久性染发剂以减轻氧化损伤,也可用于洗发水和护发素以促进发色的持久性并保持头发的整体健康和日常美观。
Acetyl zingerone methyl ether protects hair against oxidative damage incurred during and after treatment with permanent dyes and helps extend longevity of newly developed hair colour.
Background: Use of permanent hair dyes causes unintended oxidative damage during the short time frame of the dyeing process that leads to perceivable changes in the feel, manageability and appearance of hair. Moreover, after hair has been dyed, regular exposure to the sun as a key environmental stressor continues to stimulate additional oxidative damage and to induce newly developed hair colours to fade prematurely or undergo changes in colour quality.
Objective: To document the utility of acetyl zingerone methyl ether (MAZ) as a newly designed haircare ingredient to afford extra protection against oxidative damage and safeguard the integrity of hair colour.
Results: We demonstrate that MAZ is compatible chemically with the high alkaline conditions required for the colouring process and from theoretical calculations preferentially binds Fe and Cu ions relative to Ca or Zn ions. In model Fenton reactions MAZ effectively chelated active redox metals (Fe and Cu ions) in the presence of excess Ca+2 ions to inhibit the production of hydroxyl radicals, and in separate studies, MAZ neutralized singlet oxygen with greater efficiency than α-tocopherol by a factor of 2.5. When mixed into permanent dyes prior to hair tress application, MAZ significantly reduced combing forces, and SEM images led to substantial reductions in visual signs of surface damage. In a 28-day clinical study, relative to controls, mixing MAZ into hair dyes prior to application interfered neither with colour development nor with ability to cover grey hair and led to significant improvements in perceived attributes associated with hair's condition immediately following the dyeing process. Over a 28-day maintenance phase, especially between Day 14 and Day 28, continued use of shampoo and conditioner containing MAZ significantly preserved gloss measurements and hair colour in terms of longevity and colour quality as remaining desired and fresh compared to use of control shampoo and conditioner.
Conclusion: This work establishes MAZ as a next-generation hair care ingredient for use in permanent dyes to attenuate oxidative damage and in shampoos and conditioners to promote longevity of hair colour and to maintain overall health and appearance of hair on a daily basis.
期刊介绍:
The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes.
The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.