Improved efficacy of linear glutathione-peptide chaperon complexes on melanogenesis inhibition and transdermal delivery

Glutathione (GSH) exhibits considerable potential in the cosmetic industry for reducing intracellular tyrosinase activity and inhibiting melanin synthesis. However, its efficacy is hindered by limited permeability, restricting its ability to reach the basal layer of the skin where melanin production occurs. The transdermal enhancer peptide TD1 has emerged as a promising strategy to facilitate the transdermal transfer of proteins or peptides by creating intercellular gaps in keratinocytes, providing access to the basal layer. The primary objective of this study is to enhance the transdermal absorption capacity of GSH while augmenting its inhibitory effect on melanin. Two coupling structures were designed for investigation: linear (TD1-linker-GSH) and branched (TD1-GSH). The study examined the impact of the peptide skeleton on melanin inhibition ability. Our findings revealed that the linear structure not only inhibited synthetic melanin production in B16F10 cells through a direct pathway but also through a paracrine pathway, demonstrating a significant tyrosinase inhibition of nearly 70 %, attributed to the paracrine effect of human keratinocyte HaCaT. In pigmentation models of guinea pigs and zebrafish, the application of TD1-linker-GSH significantly reduced pigmentation. Notably, electric two-photon microscopy demonstrated that TD1-linker-GSH exhibited significant transdermal ability, penetrating 158.67 ± 9.28 μm into the skin of living guinea pigs. Molecular docking analysis of the binding activity with tyrosinase revealed that both TD1-linker-GSH and TD1-GSH occupy the same active pocket, with TD1-linker-GSH binding more tightly to tyrosinase. These results provide a potential foundation for therapeutic approaches aimed at enriched pigmentation and advance our understanding of the mechanisms underlying melanogenesis inhibition.