Nano-vesicular systems for melanocytes targeting and melasma treatment: In-vitro characterization, ex-vivo skin retention, and preliminary clinical appraisal

Melasma represents an acquired melanogenesis disorder resulting in skin’s hyperpigmentation effect. Although several approaches are adopted for melasma treatment, nanotechnology presents the most convenient one. Therefore, the present work aimed to formulate and characterize three nano-vesicular systems namely, liposomes, penetration enhancer containing vesicles (PEVs) and invasomes to enhance the topical delivery of the skin whitening agent; alpha arbutin (α-arbutin) for the treatment of melasma. Liposomes were prepared according to a 2³ full factorial design and the selected formula was further employed for the preparation of PEVs and invasomes. Results showed that the three vesicular systems exhibited nano-sizes ranging from 151.95 to 672.5 nm, negative charges ranging from −12.50 to −28.20 mV, high entrapment efficiencies ranging from 80.59 to 99.53 %, good stability and prolonged-release of α-arbutin for 24 h after dispersion in hydrogel form. The deposition study from the vesicular hydrogel confirmed their effectiveness for the drug’s accumulation in the skin reaching an average of 1.6-fold higher in the stratum corneum, 1.6–1.8-fold higher in the epidermis, and 1.6–1.8-fold higher in the dermis compared to the free drug dispersion in hydrogel. A preliminary clinical split-face study on patients suffering from melasma revealed that α-arbutin-loaded liposomes and PEVs in hydrogel forms showed better clinical outcomes compared to the free α-arbutin hydrogel as well as to the previously published α-arbutin encapsulated in chitosan nanoparticles and dispersed in hydrogel form. This delineates the aforementioned nano-vesicular systems as effective and clinically superior delivery means for melasma management.