光谱稳态-理想防晒霜的基本要求。

Current problems in dermatology Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI:10.1159/000517593
Denis K Dudley, Sharyn A Laughlin, Uli Osterwalder
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引用次数: 4

摘要

我们提倡在暴露于紫外线下的皮肤上涂抹防晒霜,以预防皮肤癌和阳光伤害,并采取全面的光防护策略,其中还包括避免阳光照射和穿防紫外线服装。防晒霜在防止晒伤方面的好处已得到证实,但在预防皮肤癌方面似乎主要是假定的。当代科学证实长波紫外线是黑色素瘤和光老化的主要驱动因素。因此,传统的偏于uvb的防晒霜保护为皮肤癌发病率上升,特别是无法预防黑色素瘤提供了理性和合乎逻辑的解释。更平衡的UVB/UVA防晒霜可以达到更好的保护,达到光谱稳态保护。更好的平衡保护还有另一个好处,那就是减少UVB射线,它有助于维生素D和一氧化氮的合成。可溶性有机紫外线过滤器的经皮吸收导致全身暴露,这成为相关的安全考虑。通过选择分子量在500 Da以上的低吸收电位的不溶性紫外线过滤器,可以将其最小化。过滤器还必须非常亲水,非常亲脂,或由颗粒组成。风险收益比在医学上是必要的,对于化妆品或防晒霜更是如此,因为原则上使用它们不应该有风险。生产理想的防晒霜,模仿有效的,平衡的UVB/UVA衰减纺织品和遮阳现在是可能的,同时保持人类可接受的治疗安全边际和有利的生态概况。具有良好的风险收益比和良好的美观性或其他消费者友好属性的防晒霜将提高依从性,并可能获得实质性的临床效益。
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Spectral Homeostasis - The Fundamental Requirement for an Ideal Sunscreen.

Sunscreen application to UV-exposed skin is promoted to prevent skin cancer and sun damage, within a comprehensive photoprotection strategy that also includes sun avoidance and wearing UV protective clothing. The benefits of sunscreen are verified in preventing sunburn but appear to be largely presumptive in skin cancer prevention. Contemporary science establishes UVA as a primary driver of melanoma and photoaging. Consequentially, the traditional UVB-skewed protection of sunscreens provides an intellectual and logical explanation for rising skin cancer rates and, in particular, their failure to protect against melanoma. Better protection could be achieved with more balanced UVB/UVA sunscreens, toward spectral homeostasis protection. Greater balanced protection has another advantage of attenuating fewer UVB rays, which aid synthesis of vitamin D and nitric oxide. Percutaneous absorption of Soluble Organic UV Filters leads to systemic exposure, which becomes the relevant safety consideration. It is minimized by selecting Insoluble UV Filters with low absorption potential from a molecular weight above 500 Da. The filters must also be very hydrophilic, very lipophilic, or consist of particles. The risk-benefit ratio is a medical imperative, more so for cosmetics or sunscreens, since in principle there should be no risk from their use. The production of ideal sunscreens that mimic the effective, balanced UVB/UVA attenuation of textiles and shade is now possible, while maintaining an acceptable therapeutic margin of safety in humans and a favorable ecologic profile. Sunscreens with a favorable risk-benefit ratio and good esthetic properties or other consumer-friendly attributes will improve compliance and may achieve substantial clinical benefits.

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