IF 0.3 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2022-10-01 DOI:10.1386/infs_00076_7
Oluwasola Kehinde Olowo-Ake
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引用次数: 0

摘要

2019年,我启动了一个跨学科的多媒体时尚项目,题为“如果奴隶制是王冠……”,旨在通过我的尼日利亚约鲁巴文化的镜头,向人们展示如果黑人身体被视为皇室成员会是什么样子。《如果奴隶制是王冠》是我研究生项目的一部分,也是对我最后一年本科生论文的回应。在一次关于这个项目开发的辅导会上,一位评论家告诉我,“在我的设计上穿上一条牛仔裤”(原文如此),因为“我们需要更现代而不是过时的东西”,这让我感到震惊。可悲的是,在我项目的整个发展过程中,我感受到了时尚教育体系中的殖民主义永恒,以及“理想”和“另一个”之间的不断斗争,因为我经常不得不分散我在设计研究中遇到的以西方为中心的思想。非殖民化开始发生,因为我们有意识地在我们自己创造的、不受殖民主义约束的空间中逐步走出这些障碍。在Yorúbá,我们说jade kuro(“xit”),字面意思是“离开(jade)并带走(kuro)”——我们需要走出这个西方占主导地位的世界,摆脱这种地位。Jade kuro是一种强有力的语言,它呼吁我们这样做。在这篇文章中,我将通过Yorúbá的故事来探索Jade kuro在非殖民化时尚中所扮演的角色,这与我的研究生项目《如果奴隶制是王冠…》有关,该项目将黑人的身体描绘成王室,尽管他们经历了压迫的过去和复杂的现在。
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Jade kuro: Ditching ‘the ideal’ narrative
In 2019, I started an interdisciplinary, multi-media fashion project entitled If Slavery Were a Crown… It aimed to show people, through the lens of my Nigerian Yorùbá culture, what it would look like if the Black body was perceived as royalty. If Slavery Were a Crown… was part of my graduate project and it served as a response to my final year undergraduate dissertation. I was shocked when, during a tutorial session on the development of this project, a reviewer told me, ‘throw on a pair of jeans on’ (sic) my designs because ‘we need something more up-to-date and not archaic’. Sadly, throughout the development of my project I felt the colonial permanence in the fashion education system and this constant struggle between ‘the ideal’ and ‘the other’, as I often had to decentralize the Western-centric ideas that I came across in my design research. Decolonization begins to occur as we consciously work progressively outside these barriers in spaces we create ourselves and that are not bound to coloniality. In Yorùbá, we say jade kuro (‘exit’), which literally translates to ‘leave (jade) and take away (kuro)’ – we need to come out of this world where the West is dominant and move away from that position. Jade kuro is emphatic language that calls us to do so. In this article, I will explore the role jade kuro plays in decolonizing fashion through Yorùbá storytelling in relation to my graduate project If Slavery Were a Crown…, which depicts Black bodies as royal despite the experience of an oppressive past and complex present.
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来源期刊
International Journal of Fashion Studies
International Journal of Fashion Studies HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.90
自引率
25.00%
发文量
25
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