消费贴身服装:巴西跨性别话语

IF 4.6 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, BIOMATERIALS ACS Applied Bio Materials Pub Date : 2023-06-10 DOI:10.1111/joca.12550
Rodolfo Rodrigues Rocha, Andres Rodriguez Veloso, Roberto Flores Falcão, Giovanna Giacon Rossini, Beatriz Toriello Collalto, Larissa dos Santos Lopes, Giovanna Zamboni Batista
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引用次数: 0

摘要

变性消费者努力争取自己的性别身份得到承认,并将服装作为塑造其身份的实用方法。贴身衣物代表了最内在的服装类型,对于变性人来说,它既具有功能性,又具有审美性。变性消费者在浏览贴身衣物市场时,由于他们的性别认同被社会鄙视而面临着脆弱性,这对他们的幸福产生了负面影响。本研究的重点是了解变性消费者在贴身衣物消费中被忽视的方面,讨论污名化在贴身衣物市场中产生脆弱性的作用。为了深入了解变性人多方面的贴身衣物消费背景,我们对 18 名巴西变性消费者进行了深入访谈。我们采用对话式主题分析法对数据进行了分析,并混合使用了演绎法和归纳法编码。我们的研究结果表明(1)变性人对贴身衣物的消费具有显著的积极和消极两面性;(2)尽管变性消费者将贴身衣物视为表达其性别身份的合法方式,具有象征意义,但功能性方面(如舒适度和合身性)对他们来说也至关重要;(3)贴身衣物在变性人的社会转型过程中发挥着独特的作用,因为他们可以选择是私下使用还是公开使用这些衣物,这与大多数时尚产品不同。这项研究给我们的主要启示是,对于变性消费者来说,穿着贴身衣物具有多方面的意义,会对他们的情感和社会福祉产生多方面的影响。
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Consuming intimate apparel: A Brazilian transgender discourse

Transgender consumers struggle to have their gender identity recognized, resorting to clothing as a practical way to forge their identity. Intimate apparel represents the innermost type of clothing, carrying both functional and aesthetic roles for transgender individuals. When navigating the intimate apparel marketplace, transgender consumers are faced with vulnerability as their gender identity is stigmatized by society, negatively impacting their well-being. This research focuses on understanding the neglected aspects of intimate apparel consumption by transgender consumers, discussing the role of stigma as it generates vulnerability in the intimate apparel marketplace. To gain insight into the multifaceted transgender people's intimate apparel consumption context, we conducted in-depth interviews with 18 Brazilian transgender consumers. Data were analyzed using dialogical thematic analysis with a hybrid approach of deductive and inductive coding. Our findings revealed that: (1) the consumption of intimate apparel by transgender individuals involves a striking duality of both positive and negative aspects; (2) although transgender consumers see intimate apparel as a legitimate way of expressing their gender identity that carries symbolic meaning, functional aspects (e.g., comfort and fit) are also essential to them; and (3) intimate apparel plays a unique role during transgender people's social transition as they can choose whether to use those pieces privately or publicly, unlike most fashion products. Our key takeaway from this research is that consuming intimate apparel carries multifaceted meanings for transgender consumers, impacting their emotional and social well-being in several ways.

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来源期刊
ACS Applied Bio Materials
ACS Applied Bio Materials Chemistry-Chemistry (all)
CiteScore
9.40
自引率
2.10%
发文量
464
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