{"title":"着装部分:国王路易·菲利普一世,七月君主制的裁缝和时尚","authors":"John Finkelberg","doi":"10.1080/14787318.2023.2166856","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT The iconography of King Louis-Philippe I and his invoices for garments purchased new and refurbished between 1831 and 1846 bring to light how the July Monarchy deployed fashionable menswear in a canny politics of image-making. In doing so the regime used dress to establish the credentials of the new regime. This work examines Louis-Philippe’s iconography alongside the written records of his purchasing habits to show how the regime used a strategic combination of visually tame military uniforms and subdued, but fashionable civilian menswear to create a new visual and sartorial vocabulary meant to legitimize the monarchy.","PeriodicalId":53818,"journal":{"name":"Dix-Neuf","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2000,"publicationDate":"2022-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Dressing the Part: King Louis-Philippe I, Tailoring, and Fashioning the July Monarchy\",\"authors\":\"John Finkelberg\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/14787318.2023.2166856\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"ABSTRACT The iconography of King Louis-Philippe I and his invoices for garments purchased new and refurbished between 1831 and 1846 bring to light how the July Monarchy deployed fashionable menswear in a canny politics of image-making. In doing so the regime used dress to establish the credentials of the new regime. This work examines Louis-Philippe’s iconography alongside the written records of his purchasing habits to show how the regime used a strategic combination of visually tame military uniforms and subdued, but fashionable civilian menswear to create a new visual and sartorial vocabulary meant to legitimize the monarchy.\",\"PeriodicalId\":53818,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Dix-Neuf\",\"volume\":null,\"pages\":null},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.2000,\"publicationDate\":\"2022-10-02\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Dix-Neuf\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1080/14787318.2023.2166856\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Dix-Neuf","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14787318.2023.2166856","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
Dressing the Part: King Louis-Philippe I, Tailoring, and Fashioning the July Monarchy
ABSTRACT The iconography of King Louis-Philippe I and his invoices for garments purchased new and refurbished between 1831 and 1846 bring to light how the July Monarchy deployed fashionable menswear in a canny politics of image-making. In doing so the regime used dress to establish the credentials of the new regime. This work examines Louis-Philippe’s iconography alongside the written records of his purchasing habits to show how the regime used a strategic combination of visually tame military uniforms and subdued, but fashionable civilian menswear to create a new visual and sartorial vocabulary meant to legitimize the monarchy.