{"title":"迷人:时尚中的玫瑰","authors":"H. Franklin","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.2022283","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"As a point of inspiration, a motif, and decorative element, the rose’s ubiquity in fashion is arguably unrivaled. Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion, an exhibition mounted at The Museum at FIT in New York, explored the rose as a source of inspiration for fashion. As the exhibition makes clear, the rose holds so many layered meanings that everyone can find an element of the bloom that speaks to them. In this way, the rose’s ubiquity is its power; it appears on the most delicate of debutante gowns and the most severe mourning dress. A rose is both beautiful and treacherous, elitist and democratic, fragile and resilient. It is also a symbol of love and deceit, life and death. As a starting point for an exhibition, the rose offers seemingly endless avenues of study. Co-curated by Amy de la Haye, chair of Dress History and Curatorship and joint director of the Centre for Fashion Curation at London College of Fashion, and Colleen Hill, curator of costume and accessories at MFIT, the exhibition Ravishing examined how the rose has influenced fashion and has multi-faceted layers of meaning. Over 130 objects were on display, including women’s and men’s clothing and accessories that dated from ca. 1735 to the present. The garments, which were sourced from the museum’s collection or acquired for the exhibition, were as diverse as an embroidered 1810 gown to a 2019 catwalk look from the New York menswear label Nihl. The exhibition was divided into two sections, arranged to resemble gardens. The first gallery was a “rose garden of hats.” Each hat was placed upon a green 1 Amy de la Haye, Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion (London: Yale University Press, 2020), 12.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"101 - 105"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2000,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion\",\"authors\":\"H. Franklin\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/03612112.2021.2022283\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"As a point of inspiration, a motif, and decorative element, the rose’s ubiquity in fashion is arguably unrivaled. Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion, an exhibition mounted at The Museum at FIT in New York, explored the rose as a source of inspiration for fashion. As the exhibition makes clear, the rose holds so many layered meanings that everyone can find an element of the bloom that speaks to them. In this way, the rose’s ubiquity is its power; it appears on the most delicate of debutante gowns and the most severe mourning dress. A rose is both beautiful and treacherous, elitist and democratic, fragile and resilient. It is also a symbol of love and deceit, life and death. As a starting point for an exhibition, the rose offers seemingly endless avenues of study. Co-curated by Amy de la Haye, chair of Dress History and Curatorship and joint director of the Centre for Fashion Curation at London College of Fashion, and Colleen Hill, curator of costume and accessories at MFIT, the exhibition Ravishing examined how the rose has influenced fashion and has multi-faceted layers of meaning. Over 130 objects were on display, including women’s and men’s clothing and accessories that dated from ca. 1735 to the present. The garments, which were sourced from the museum’s collection or acquired for the exhibition, were as diverse as an embroidered 1810 gown to a 2019 catwalk look from the New York menswear label Nihl. The exhibition was divided into two sections, arranged to resemble gardens. 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引用次数: 0
摘要
作为灵感、主题和装饰元素,玫瑰在时尚中的无处不在可以说是无与伦比的。《狂欢:时尚中的玫瑰》是在纽约FIT博物馆举办的一个展览,探讨了玫瑰作为时尚灵感的来源。正如展览所表明的那样,玫瑰具有如此多的层次意义,以至于每个人都能找到与之对话的花朵元素。这样一来,玫瑰的无处不在就是它的力量;它出现在最精致的初出茅庐礼服和最庄重的丧服上。玫瑰既美丽又险恶,既精英又民主,既脆弱又坚韧。它也是爱与欺骗、生与死的象征。作为展览的起点,玫瑰似乎提供了无尽的研究途径。该展览由伦敦时装学院服装历史与策展人、时尚策展中心联合主任Amy de la Haye和MFIT服装与配饰策展人Colleen Hill共同策划,研究了玫瑰如何影响时尚并具有多方面的意义。展出了130多件物品,包括约1735年至今的男女服装和配饰。这些服装来自博物馆的藏品或为展览而获得,从1810年的刺绣礼服到2019年纽约男装品牌Nihl的T台造型,种类繁多。展览分为两个部分,布置得像花园。第一个画廊是一个“帽子的玫瑰园”。每顶帽子都放在绿色的1 Amy de la Haye,《狂欢:时尚中的玫瑰》(伦敦:耶鲁大学出版社,2020),12。
As a point of inspiration, a motif, and decorative element, the rose’s ubiquity in fashion is arguably unrivaled. Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion, an exhibition mounted at The Museum at FIT in New York, explored the rose as a source of inspiration for fashion. As the exhibition makes clear, the rose holds so many layered meanings that everyone can find an element of the bloom that speaks to them. In this way, the rose’s ubiquity is its power; it appears on the most delicate of debutante gowns and the most severe mourning dress. A rose is both beautiful and treacherous, elitist and democratic, fragile and resilient. It is also a symbol of love and deceit, life and death. As a starting point for an exhibition, the rose offers seemingly endless avenues of study. Co-curated by Amy de la Haye, chair of Dress History and Curatorship and joint director of the Centre for Fashion Curation at London College of Fashion, and Colleen Hill, curator of costume and accessories at MFIT, the exhibition Ravishing examined how the rose has influenced fashion and has multi-faceted layers of meaning. Over 130 objects were on display, including women’s and men’s clothing and accessories that dated from ca. 1735 to the present. The garments, which were sourced from the museum’s collection or acquired for the exhibition, were as diverse as an embroidered 1810 gown to a 2019 catwalk look from the New York menswear label Nihl. The exhibition was divided into two sections, arranged to resemble gardens. The first gallery was a “rose garden of hats.” Each hat was placed upon a green 1 Amy de la Haye, Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion (London: Yale University Press, 2020), 12.