{"title":"拉格菲尔德、时尚与文化遗产","authors":"R. Garelick","doi":"10.1215/00138282-9890835","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Abstract:When Karl Lagerfeld took over the Maison Chanel in 1983, its founder, Coco Chanel, had been dead for twelve years, and the iconic brand was foundering. Once the epitome of French glamour, history, and feminine luxury, the house was rapidly losing prestige and relevance. Lagerfeld revived the brand through a complex reinterpretation of its iconography, its founder’s persona, and especially its relationship to French identity and patrimoine culturel—cultural patrimony. His reign at Chanel amounted to a de facto commentary on nationality, personality, style, and gender, demonstrating how history and politics get filtered and expressed through fashion.","PeriodicalId":43905,"journal":{"name":"ENGLISH LANGUAGE NOTES","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2000,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"1","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Lagerfeld, Fashion, and Cultural Heritage\",\"authors\":\"R. Garelick\",\"doi\":\"10.1215/00138282-9890835\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"Abstract:When Karl Lagerfeld took over the Maison Chanel in 1983, its founder, Coco Chanel, had been dead for twelve years, and the iconic brand was foundering. Once the epitome of French glamour, history, and feminine luxury, the house was rapidly losing prestige and relevance. Lagerfeld revived the brand through a complex reinterpretation of its iconography, its founder’s persona, and especially its relationship to French identity and patrimoine culturel—cultural patrimony. His reign at Chanel amounted to a de facto commentary on nationality, personality, style, and gender, demonstrating how history and politics get filtered and expressed through fashion.\",\"PeriodicalId\":43905,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"ENGLISH LANGUAGE NOTES\",\"volume\":null,\"pages\":null},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.2000,\"publicationDate\":\"2022-10-01\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"1\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"ENGLISH LANGUAGE NOTES\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1215/00138282-9890835\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"文学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"LITERATURE\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"ENGLISH LANGUAGE NOTES","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1215/00138282-9890835","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"文学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"LITERATURE","Score":null,"Total":0}
Abstract:When Karl Lagerfeld took over the Maison Chanel in 1983, its founder, Coco Chanel, had been dead for twelve years, and the iconic brand was foundering. Once the epitome of French glamour, history, and feminine luxury, the house was rapidly losing prestige and relevance. Lagerfeld revived the brand through a complex reinterpretation of its iconography, its founder’s persona, and especially its relationship to French identity and patrimoine culturel—cultural patrimony. His reign at Chanel amounted to a de facto commentary on nationality, personality, style, and gender, demonstrating how history and politics get filtered and expressed through fashion.
期刊介绍：
A respected forum since 1962 for peer-reviewed work in English literary studies, English Language Notes - ELN - has undergone an extensive makeover as a semiannual journal devoted exclusively to special topics in all fields of literary and cultural studies. ELN is dedicated to interdisciplinary and collaborative work among literary scholarship and fields as disparate as theology, fine arts, history, geography, philosophy, and science. The new journal provides a unique forum for cutting-edge debate and exchange among university-affiliated and independent scholars, artists of all kinds, and academic as well as cultural institutions. As our diverse group of contributors demonstrates, ELN reaches across national and international boundaries.
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