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引用次数: 9

摘要

早期现代服饰的研究往往侧重于它与地位和身份的联系,而忽视了服饰的主要功能,即保护身体和促进健康。日常穿衣和脱衣服的过程需要考虑很多因素:例如,为了保持理想的体温,身体的重要部位是否用正确的面料和颜色充分覆盖?衣服带来的许多危险抵消了它对健康的好处,比如有毒染料、过于紧身或过于宽松的衣服,或者含有污垢和可能感染身体的疾病。这篇文章借鉴了在意大利和英国印刷和阅读的医学论文和健康手册,以及个人信件和日记,并结合所描述风格的视觉证据。它建立在现代早期对预防医学、体液理论、健康和身体的广泛兴趣的基础上,深入关注服装在这些争论中的作用。
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Health Hazards
Studies of early modern dress frequently focus on its connection with status and identity, overlooking clothing’s primary function, namely to protect the body and promote good health. The daily processes of dressing and undressing carried numerous considerations: for example, were vital areas of the body sufficiently covered, in the correct fabrics and colours, in order to maintain an ideal body temperature? The health benefits of clothing were countered by the many dangers it carried, such as toxic dyes, garments that were either too tight or voluminous, or harboured dirt and diseases that could infect the body. This article draws on medical treatises and health manuals printed and read in Italy and England, as well as personal correspondence and diaries, contextualised with visual evidence of the styles described. It builds on the current, wider interest in preventative medicine, humoral theory, health and the body in the early modern period by focusing in depth on the role of clothing within these debates.
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