当游戏成为镇上唯一的时尚:《Covid-19》、《动物之森》和时尚的未来

IF 0.4 4区 社会学 Q3 LAW Queen Mary Journal of Intellectual Property Pub Date : 2021-05-01 DOI:10.4337/QMJIP.2021.02.00
J. Gibson
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引用次数: 4

摘要

时尚产业体现在身体的个性、产品触感的亲密感、潮流和部落的共同体上。新冠肺炎的影响是深远和不分青红皂白的,不仅是为了维护时尚的实用和商业基础设施,也是为了时尚本身的身份。首先,有一种非常直接的反应,那就是让工厂转而生产防护设备,并将口罩定位为时尚产品。病毒对生产的影响,包括工厂的关闭,放大了对外包的现有关注,以及制造大部分快时尚的贫穷经济体工人福利的不确定性。与此同时,奢侈品租赁等缓慢的时尚运动可能永远不会恢复。从根本上说,时尚的身份也发生了变革性的转变。时尚界与社交距离作斗争,囤积流行产品。时尚已经面临着其可持续性的记录,但随着病毒的影响,时尚商业模式的目标正在进一步远离单个产品的营业额,更接近于重复使用和持续时间的讨论。最终,也许是不可避免的,时尚行业不得不调和一种销售更少产品而不是更多产品的零售模式。时尚正变得不那么“多事之秋”,21世纪时尚大道的展示越来越成为一种媒介和虚拟的存在,而不是一种充满活力的存在。在这方面,消费者对时尚产品来源的信念(以及标签的真实性和保证)成为交易中的利害关系对象,而不是产品本身。因此,时尚的社会生活变得越来越难以识别,但在许多方面,也更容易找到。新冠肺炎给时尚行业带来了具体挑战,其中一些挑战远远超出了直接的零售关系。不仅是个别品牌,在很大程度上,行业本身也被迫重新定位并确保身份和韧性。一个特别不寻常的现象是,时尚融入了任天堂最新发布的社交模拟电子游戏系列《动物森友会:新视野》的粉丝群体。我说这是非同寻常的,但从很多方面来说,动物森友会的时尚化和时尚游戏化是一个漫长的过程。
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When games are the only fashion in town: Covid-19, Animal Crossing, and the future of fashion
The fashion industry is articulated upon the personalities of bodies, the intimacy of the product’s touch and feel, the community of trends and tribes. The effect of Covid-19 has been far-reaching and indiscriminate, not only for the maintenance of the practical and commercial infrastructure of fashion, but also for the very identity of fashion itself. In the first instance there was the very direct response of turning factories over to the production of protective equipment and the positioning of the face mask as a fashion item. The impact of the virus on production, including the closure of factories, has magnified already existing attention on outsourcing and the uncertain welfare of workers in poorer economies manufacturing the bulk of fast fashion. At the same time, slow fashion movements such as luxury rental may never recover. Fundamentally there has also been a transformative shift in fashion’s identity. Fashion struggles with social distance and hoards trending products. Fashion has already been confronting its record on sustainability, but with the impact of the virus, the object of fashion’s commercial model is moving even further away from that of the turnover of the individual product and closer to a discourse of reuse and duration. Ultimately, and perhaps inevitably, the fashion industry has had to reconcile a retail model of selling less product rather than more. Fashion is becoming less ‘eventful’ and the display of fashion’s twenty-first-century boulevardier is increasingly a mediated and virtual presence, rather than a vibrant one. In this respect, the consumer’s belief in the provenance of the fashion product (and the authenticity and assurance of labelling) becomes the object at stake and in transaction, rather than the product itself. The social life of fashion is thus becoming more difficult to recognize but, in many ways, also easier to find. Covid-19 has presented specific challenges to the fashion industry, some well beyond the immediate retail relationship. Not only individual brands, but also to a large extent the industry itself, have been forced to re-position and secure identity and resilience. One particularly extraordinary phenomenon has been the translation of fashion into the fan communities of Animal Crossing: New Horizons, the latest release of Nintendo’s social simulation video game series, Animal Crossing. I say extraordinary, but in many ways the fashioning of Animal Crossing and the gaming of fashion were a long time coming.
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