悲惨的、神话的、神奇的Marmiton

IF 0.3 3区 历史学 Q2 HISTORY HISTORICAL REFLECTIONS-REFLEXIONS HISTORIQUES Pub Date : 2018-12-01 DOI:10.3167/HRRH.2018.440306
Michael D. Garval
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引用次数: 1

摘要

在第三共和国早期,法国对“marmiton”或“烹饪学徒”(culinary apprentice)的描述中充满了揭示性的悖论。调查性报道文学和改革派话语揭露了学徒们悲惨的生活,同时仍然把这些年轻人描绘成顽皮和无忧无虑的样子。相反,流行的marmiton神话,特别是在儿童文学中,理想化的烹饪学徒,在瞥见艰苦的生活和工作条件的同时,也强调了雄心勃勃的学徒取得巨大公共成功的公认难得的机会。马克斯·雅各布(Max Jacob)的儿童读物《高文的历史》(Histoire du Roi Kaboul Ier et duMarmiton Gauwain)就是一个典型的例子,书中对名厨奥古斯特·埃斯科菲耶(Auguste Escoffier)的非凡成就进行了童话式的模仿。最终,在迷人的同时,人们对神奇marmiton的美好看法混淆了剥削童工的做法,在这个被认为是法国美食黄金时代,这是整个烹饪企业的基础。
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The Miserable, Mythical, Magical Marmiton
Revealing paradoxes abounded in early Third Republic French representations of the marmiton, or culinary apprentice. Investigative reportage and reformist discourse exposed apprentices’ miserable existence while still depicting these young fellows as playful and carefree. Conversely, popular marmiton mythology, particularly in children’s literature, idealized culinary apprenticeship, amid glimpses of harsh living and working conditions, while also highlighting admittedly rare opportunities for ambitious apprentices to achieve substantial public success. Max Jacob’s children’s book Histoire du Roi Kaboul Ier et du Marmiton Gauwain provides an emblematic example with its parodic fairy-tale rendering of celebrity chef Auguste Escoffier’s extraordinary triumphs. Ultimately, while enchanting, the rosy popular vision of the magical marmiton obfuscated exploitative child labor practices underpinning the whole culinary enterprise in this supposed golden age of French gastronomy.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
0.20
自引率
50.00%
发文量
17
期刊介绍: Founded over thirty years ago, HISTORICAL REFLECTIONS/REFLECTIONS HISTORIQUES has established a well-deserved reputation for publishing high-quality articles of wide-ranging interest. Interdisciplinary and innovative in character, the journal publishes works that explore the terrain of discourse and representation, and the history of religion, art, literature and the social sciences.
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