黑豹的服装是黑色的皮肤

IF 0.3 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2021-04-01 DOI:10.1386/ffc_00024_3
L. King
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引用次数: 0

摘要

作为一名服装、纺织和表面装饰从业者,我的研究重点是皮肤如何对服装的阅读做出贡献。露丝·E·卡特(Ruth E.Carter)的《黑豹》(2018)奥斯卡获奖服装在打破传统超级英雄服装比喻的同时,也直接影响了我对将黑人皮肤解读为英雄的研究。卡特使用黑色原始皮肤和超级英雄皮肤状服装来象征英雄,这微妙地挑战了通常嵌入黑人皮肤中的有限和负面叙事的视觉破坏。一个黑人超级英雄和克星的服装使黑人的身体在行动中摆脱了博格尔的性欲亢进雄鹿的负面刻板印象。将黑人皮肤解读为英雄,这是该实践从黑人和白人皮肤的二元性到黑人这个名字所代表的多种棕色色调的探索的基础。这是皮肤作为隐喻的重复,超级英雄服装皮肤和原始皮肤都展示了超级英雄、他的另一个自我和博格尔的刻板印象之间的多样性,这构成了本文的基础。根据戴尔的说法,黑色皮肤作为服装探索了肤色是如何被其他黑色身体所习惯的,并在后殖民时代的解读中将其排在白色身体之下。传统上,动作片中的系统性种族主义无缝地将白人的身体和皮肤视为天生的英雄,而对同等的黑人身体和皮肤则持负面看法。我的实践探索了黑色和棕色皮肤强壮、珍贵和有力的公平性,这样我创作的任何服装、纺织品或表面装饰在放在黑色身体上时都会和放在白色身体上时读起来一样。
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Black skin as costume in Black Panther
As a costume, textile and surface adornment practitioner my research focuses on how skin contributes to the reading of a costume. Black Panther’s (2018) Oscar winning costume by Ruth E. Carter conformation to whilst also breaking traditional superhero costuming tropes feeds directly into my research on reading black skin as heroic. The visual disruption to the limited and negative narratives usually embedded within black skin are subtly challenged by Carter’s use of both black primordial and superhero skin-like costumes to signify the heroic. The costuming of a black superhero and nemesis frame the black body in action away from the negative stereotypes of Bogle’s hypersexual buck. The reading of black skin as heroic underpins the practice’s explorations away from the binary of black and white skin to the many shades of brown the moniker of black represents. It is the repetition of skin as metaphor where both superhero costumed skin and primordial skin demonstrate the multiplicity between superhero, his alter-ego and Bogle’s stereotypes that form the basis of this article. Black skin as costume explores how skin colour, according to Dyer has been used to other the black body and rank it below that of the white body within postcolonial readings. Traditionally systemic racism in action films has seamlessly placed the white body and skin as inherently heroic whilst reading the equivalent black body and skin negatively. My practice explores equity of black and brown skin as strong, precious and powerful so that any costumes, textiles or surface decoration I create would read the same when placed on a black body as they would on a white body.
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来源期刊
Film Fashion & Consumption
Film Fashion & Consumption HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
自引率
50.00%
发文量
6
期刊最新文献
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