书评:Eric Mielants和Katsiaryna Salavei Bardos(编辑),《经济周期和社会运动:过去、现在和未来》

IF 2 2区 社会学 Q2 SOCIOLOGY International Journal of Comparative Sociology Pub Date : 2023-06-30 DOI:10.1177/00207152231184082
L. Márquez
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It is within this context that the modern Southern restaurant offers traditional soul food dishes sourced from local farms and presented as fine dining cuisine. Although all four of these class groupings have distinct experiences around food, one of the main questions underpinning the book is the role of soul food in the modern South. Soul food is labeled as the source of poor health among present day African Americans. Historical food habits continue to shape understandings of what foods are good and bad, desirable or not. It is in this context that soul food is viewed as a historical touchstone for African Americans and also a present day plague on overall health and wellness. Yet, as Ewoodzie argues, this is an oversimplified, if not completely erroneous view of the foodways and decision-making process of modern day African Americans across class lines in Jackson, Mississippi. While it is true that historically soul foods were a staple of Southern foodways, the South is not, nor has it ever been a static or homogeneous entity. The modern South, the one inhabited by the men and women who stories are highlighted in this book, is not the same South characterized by home gardens and canning traditions, although for some families those habits still exist, the reality is more structured by affordability and convenience reflecting contemporary poverty. Not simply meaning starvation, hunger is joined by the quick and affordable promise of empty calorie foods, that while satisfying hunger can lead to other health crisis such as obesity, diabetes, and high blood pressure. The reality of soul food in the modern South is that even when families have the historical memory of these foods, they are hindered in recreating these food traditions in their daily lives, and subsequent generations are even further removed from these soul food traditions. A more nuanced understanding of the constraining factors that surround daily food decisions from transportation and child care, to affordability and a developing food consciousness in a society that does not equally distribute healthy food is needed to understand what it means to create foodways in a society that remains structured by race and class, albeit in ways that are not static. Without considering such nuances of culture, structure, and agency, people will continue to stereotype the past, the food people eat and why, and then use those views to dismiss the inequalities facing families today; hardening these views and apathies that make creating a better tomorrow where food traditions are about families, community, and promise, not about a hunger straining the nation’s foodways and soul, even more challenging to achieve. 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引用次数: 0

摘要

经济优势社区作为企业主在经济上举步维艰,同时也面临着寻求健康食品的限制,这些食品只能通过汽车和长途汽车前往城市的另一边。第四组体验聚焦于一群上流社会的黑人商业女性和男性,他们有可支配收入来寻找高档餐厅,但无论收入如何,在这些精英餐饮环境中并不总是受到欢迎。在这一群体中,由于资金短缺而导致的饥饿不是一个问题,但饥饿仍然是在时间短缺的背景下产生的,因为工作时间表是限制白天食物时间的主要力量。正是在这种背景下,现代南方餐厅提供来自当地农场的传统灵魂美食,并以美食的形式呈现。尽管这四个阶级群体在食物方面都有不同的经历,但支撑这本书的主要问题之一是灵魂食物在现代南方的作用。灵魂食品被认为是当今非裔美国人健康状况不佳的根源。历史上的饮食习惯继续影响着人们对什么食物是好的和坏的,是可取的还是不可取的理解。正是在这种背景下,灵魂食品被视为非裔美国人的历史试金石,也是当今影响整体健康的瘟疫。然而,正如Ewoodzie所说,这是对密西西比州杰克逊市现代非裔美国人的饮食方式和决策过程的一种过于简单化的看法,如果不是完全错误的话。虽然历史上灵魂食物确实是南方饮食方式的主要内容,但南方不是,也从来不是一个静态或同质的实体。现代南方,即本书中强调的男女居住的南方,与以家庭花园和罐头传统为特征的南方不同,尽管对一些家庭来说,这些习惯仍然存在,但现实更多地是由负担能力和便利性构成的,这反映了当代的贫困。饥饿不仅仅意味着饥饿,还伴随着快速且负担得起的低热量食物的承诺,在满足饥饿的同时,还会导致其他健康危机,如肥胖、糖尿病和高血压。现代南方灵魂食物的现实是,即使家庭对这些食物有着历史记忆,他们在日常生活中也无法重现这些食物传统,后代甚至进一步远离这些灵魂食物传统。在一个没有平等分配健康食品的社会中,需要更细致地理解围绕日常食品决策的制约因素,从交通和儿童保育,到可负担性,以及不断发展的食品意识,才能理解在一个仍然按种族和阶级结构的社会中创造食品方式意味着什么,尽管方式不是一成不变的。如果不考虑文化、结构和机构的细微差别,人们将继续对过去、人们吃的食物以及为什么吃,然后利用这些观点来消除当今家庭面临的不平等;强化这些观点和行为,使创造一个更美好的明天变得更加具有挑战性,在这个明天,食物传统关乎家庭、社区和承诺,而不是饥饿给国家的饮食方式和灵魂带来压力。Ewoodzie的《在杰克逊吃点东西》是围绕当今黑人社区的生活和饮食方式,拥抱更好的未来愿景的重要一步。
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Book review: Eric Mielants and Katsiaryna Salavei Bardos (eds), Economic Cycles and Social Movements: Past, Present and Future
economically advantaged neighborhoods to struggle both financially as business owners and with the constraints of seeking healthy food that is only accessible by car and extensive drives to a different side of the city. The fourth set of experiences focuses on a group of upper-class Black business women and men who have the disposable income to seek out fine dining restaurants, but are not always welcomed in these elite dining environments regardless of their income. Within this group, hunger because of money scarcity is not an issue, but hunger still arises in the context of time scarcity as work schedules are a dominant force that limits the time for food during the day. It is within this context that the modern Southern restaurant offers traditional soul food dishes sourced from local farms and presented as fine dining cuisine. Although all four of these class groupings have distinct experiences around food, one of the main questions underpinning the book is the role of soul food in the modern South. Soul food is labeled as the source of poor health among present day African Americans. Historical food habits continue to shape understandings of what foods are good and bad, desirable or not. It is in this context that soul food is viewed as a historical touchstone for African Americans and also a present day plague on overall health and wellness. Yet, as Ewoodzie argues, this is an oversimplified, if not completely erroneous view of the foodways and decision-making process of modern day African Americans across class lines in Jackson, Mississippi. While it is true that historically soul foods were a staple of Southern foodways, the South is not, nor has it ever been a static or homogeneous entity. The modern South, the one inhabited by the men and women who stories are highlighted in this book, is not the same South characterized by home gardens and canning traditions, although for some families those habits still exist, the reality is more structured by affordability and convenience reflecting contemporary poverty. Not simply meaning starvation, hunger is joined by the quick and affordable promise of empty calorie foods, that while satisfying hunger can lead to other health crisis such as obesity, diabetes, and high blood pressure. The reality of soul food in the modern South is that even when families have the historical memory of these foods, they are hindered in recreating these food traditions in their daily lives, and subsequent generations are even further removed from these soul food traditions. A more nuanced understanding of the constraining factors that surround daily food decisions from transportation and child care, to affordability and a developing food consciousness in a society that does not equally distribute healthy food is needed to understand what it means to create foodways in a society that remains structured by race and class, albeit in ways that are not static. Without considering such nuances of culture, structure, and agency, people will continue to stereotype the past, the food people eat and why, and then use those views to dismiss the inequalities facing families today; hardening these views and apathies that make creating a better tomorrow where food traditions are about families, community, and promise, not about a hunger straining the nation’s foodways and soul, even more challenging to achieve. Ewoodzie’s Getting Something to Eat in Jackson is an important step in embracing a better vision of the future by centering on the lives and foodways of Black communities today.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
3.00
自引率
10.00%
发文量
49
期刊介绍: The International Journal of Comparative Sociology was established in 1960 to publish the highest quality peer reviewed research that is both international in scope and comparative in method. The journal draws articles from sociologists worldwide and encourages competing perspectives. IJCS recognizes that many significant research questions are inherently interdisciplinary, and therefore welcomes work from scholars in related disciplines, including political science, geography, economics, anthropology, and business sciences. The journal is published six times a year, including special issues on topics of special interest to the international social science community.
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