Interdisciplinary research into the materials and degradation processes of an eighteenth-century robe à la française

Abstract In preparation for the conservation treatment of an eighteenth-century robe à la française in the collection of the Kunstmuseum Den Haag (KMDH), Netherlands, analytical research was carried out to understand both the manufacturing process and the degradation issues extant in its brocade fabric and decorative lace elements. For this an interdisciplinary team from a range of institutions and fields used various analytical techniques, including ultra-high performance liquid chromatography with photo-diode array detector attached to a high-resolution mass spectrometer (UHPLC-PDA-HRMS), scanning electron microscope with energy dispersive X-ray (SEM-EDX) and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The resulting identification of the principle colourant and materials of the fabric, as well as the presence of elements such as starch paste and gallic tannins, guided the treatment by helping to identify the conservation priorities as well as significant aspects of this example of historic fashion.