时尚作为一种生活的审美形式

IF 0.2 4区 哲学 0 PHILOSOPHY Croatian Journal of Philosophy Pub Date : 2021-05-12 DOI:10.52685/CJP.21.1.4
E. Abate
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引用次数: 0

摘要

时尚是一种涉及我们日常生活的美学实践:它与日常生活联系在一起,是无尽美学体验的源泉。本文旨在验证维特根斯坦后期美学思想对时尚的新视角。在《时尚哲学透视》(2017)中,马图奇介绍了将维特根斯坦的“生活形式”概念与时尚相结合的想法。根据这篇论文,本文旨在展示时尚作为一种“生活形式”是如何构成的。具体来说,我认为时尚是一种“生活的美学形式”,它在结构上采用了一种美学类型的语言——一种有自己特定语法(或规则集)的语言。我声称,在时尚中,语言语法和社会编码的审美反应之间有一个接触点:时尚通过其周期性的季节性,盲目地遵循自己的语法,同时又倾向于创造性地重塑自己。因此,任何每天致力于时尚实践的人都会对其规则保持敏感,从而形成通常属于时尚本身的认同/多样化的社会辩证法。最后,基于时尚是一种“生活形式”的说法,事实上,由于时尚主要是一种美学实践,我认为维特根斯坦的美学观念也可以与时尚联系在一起:“审美反应”、“姿势”和“正确性”等概念将被证明对分析时尚的审美现象至关重要。
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Fashion as an Aesthetic Form of Life
Fashion is an aesthetic practice that concerns the ordinary sphere of our life: it is associated with everydayness and it is a source of endless aesthetic experiences. The purpose of this paper is to validate a new perspective on fashion based on Wittgenstein’s later aesthetic conception. In Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion (2017), Matteucci introduces the idea of combining the Wittgensteinian concept of “form of life” with fashion. In accordance with this thesis, the paper aims at showing how fashion is constituted as a “form of life”. Specifically, I shall argue that fashion is an “aesthetics form of life” which structurally employs a language of an aesthetic type ––one with a specific grammar (or set of rules) of its own. I claim that there is in fashion a contact point between the grammar of language and socially encoded aesthetic responses: fashion follows slavishly its own grammar, through its cyclical seasonality, while at the same time tending to creatively reinvent itself. Thus, anyone who daily commits to the practices of fashion acquires sensitivity to its rules, contributing to a social dialectic of identification/diversification typically belonging to fashion itself. Finally, on the basis of the claim that fashion is a “form of life”, and indeed since fashion is primarily an aesthetic practice, I claim that Wittgenstein’s aesthetic notions can coherently be related to fashion as well: concepts such as ‘aesthetic reaction’, ‘gesture’, and ‘correctness’ will be shown to be crucial to an analysis of the aesthetic phenomenon of fashion.
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