赋予女性权力:来自前线的时尚

IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2021-01-02 DOI:10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688
J. Ayres
{"title":"赋予女性权力:来自前线的时尚","authors":"J. Ayres","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"In November 2018, CNN, Teen Vogue, The Hill, and even Fox News reported that Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (AOC) had loaned her shoes to a fashion exhibit at Cornell University (FIGURE 1). Worn-through shoes would typically be excluded from fashion collections, except that this pair had a special significance: the dirt and holes illustrated the miles of New York City blocks AOC walked as she went door-to-door gathering signatures for her campaign for New York’s Fourteenth Congressional District. Her shoes are also a refreshing testament to democracy—she did not buy her votes or seat; rather, she devoted the energy and put in the painstaking work of talking to the everyday-voting public to marshal support for her political bid. Thus, AOC’s shoes encapsulate the heart and soul of this exhibition and fashion studies in general: clothes matter, their materiality and the way they are worn (or worn-through) matter, and they matter profoundly for what we think is possible. This exhibition tells the story of how women, from the end of the nineteenth century to the present, have used dress and accouterments indirectly in roles that challenged the status quo and directly to assert their political rights and take their rightful positions in public spaces. Professor Denise Nicole Green, faculty advisor of the exhibition, explained in an interview that the overall aim was to showcase the concrete and specific material culture and garments of women’s lives to illustrate how fashion is a vehicle for political change and how “people who are marginalized use Promotional material for the exhibition featuring an archival photograph of Coretta Scott King speaking at a labor rally. Courtesy of the Kheel Center for LaborManagement Documentation & Archives at Cornell University","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"113 - 117"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2000,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"WOMEN EMPOWERED: Fashions from the Frontline\",\"authors\":\"J. Ayres\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"In November 2018, CNN, Teen Vogue, The Hill, and even Fox News reported that Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (AOC) had loaned her shoes to a fashion exhibit at Cornell University (FIGURE 1). Worn-through shoes would typically be excluded from fashion collections, except that this pair had a special significance: the dirt and holes illustrated the miles of New York City blocks AOC walked as she went door-to-door gathering signatures for her campaign for New York’s Fourteenth Congressional District. Her shoes are also a refreshing testament to democracy—she did not buy her votes or seat; rather, she devoted the energy and put in the painstaking work of talking to the everyday-voting public to marshal support for her political bid. Thus, AOC’s shoes encapsulate the heart and soul of this exhibition and fashion studies in general: clothes matter, their materiality and the way they are worn (or worn-through) matter, and they matter profoundly for what we think is possible. This exhibition tells the story of how women, from the end of the nineteenth century to the present, have used dress and accouterments indirectly in roles that challenged the status quo and directly to assert their political rights and take their rightful positions in public spaces. Professor Denise Nicole Green, faculty advisor of the exhibition, explained in an interview that the overall aim was to showcase the concrete and specific material culture and garments of women’s lives to illustrate how fashion is a vehicle for political change and how “people who are marginalized use Promotional material for the exhibition featuring an archival photograph of Coretta Scott King speaking at a labor rally. Courtesy of the Kheel Center for LaborManagement Documentation & Archives at Cornell University\",\"PeriodicalId\":42364,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America\",\"volume\":\"47 1\",\"pages\":\"113 - 117\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.2000,\"publicationDate\":\"2021-01-02\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0

摘要

2018年11月,CNN、《Teen Vogue》、The Hill甚至福克斯新闻都报道了亚历山大·奥卡西奥·科尔特斯(Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez)将她的鞋子借到了康奈尔大学的一个时装展览上(图1)。穿破的鞋子通常被排除在时装系列之外,但这双鞋有一个特殊的意义:这双鞋上的污垢和洞表明了AOC在挨家挨户为纽约第十四届国会选区的竞选活动收集签名时走过的纽约市街区。她的鞋子也是民主令人耳目一新的证明——她没有花钱买选票或席位;相反,她投入了精力,投入了艰苦的工作,与日常投票的公众交谈,以争取对她政治竞选的支持。因此,AOC的鞋子概括了这次展览和时尚研究的核心和灵魂:衣服很重要,它们的物质性和穿着(或磨损)的方式很重要,它们对我们认为可能发生的事情有着深远的影响。本次展览讲述了从19世纪末到现在,女性如何间接地在挑战现状的角色中使用服装和配饰,并直接维护她们的政治权利,并在公共空间中占据应有的地位。展览的指导老师丹尼斯·妮可·格林(Denise Nicole Green)教授在接受采访时解释说,展览的总体目标是展示女性生活中具体而具体的物质文化和服装,以说明时尚是如何成为政治变革的工具,以及“被边缘化的人如何利用科蕾塔·斯科特·金(Coretta Scott King)在劳工集会上讲话的档案照片作为展览的宣传材料。”康奈尔大学基尔劳动管理文档与档案中心提供
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
查看原文
分享 分享
微信好友 朋友圈 QQ好友 复制链接
本刊更多论文
WOMEN EMPOWERED: Fashions from the Frontline
In November 2018, CNN, Teen Vogue, The Hill, and even Fox News reported that Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (AOC) had loaned her shoes to a fashion exhibit at Cornell University (FIGURE 1). Worn-through shoes would typically be excluded from fashion collections, except that this pair had a special significance: the dirt and holes illustrated the miles of New York City blocks AOC walked as she went door-to-door gathering signatures for her campaign for New York’s Fourteenth Congressional District. Her shoes are also a refreshing testament to democracy—she did not buy her votes or seat; rather, she devoted the energy and put in the painstaking work of talking to the everyday-voting public to marshal support for her political bid. Thus, AOC’s shoes encapsulate the heart and soul of this exhibition and fashion studies in general: clothes matter, their materiality and the way they are worn (or worn-through) matter, and they matter profoundly for what we think is possible. This exhibition tells the story of how women, from the end of the nineteenth century to the present, have used dress and accouterments indirectly in roles that challenged the status quo and directly to assert their political rights and take their rightful positions in public spaces. Professor Denise Nicole Green, faculty advisor of the exhibition, explained in an interview that the overall aim was to showcase the concrete and specific material culture and garments of women’s lives to illustrate how fashion is a vehicle for political change and how “people who are marginalized use Promotional material for the exhibition featuring an archival photograph of Coretta Scott King speaking at a labor rally. Courtesy of the Kheel Center for LaborManagement Documentation & Archives at Cornell University
求助全文
通过发布文献求助,成功后即可免费获取论文全文。 去求助
来源期刊
CiteScore
0.20
自引率
0.00%
发文量
28
期刊最新文献
Disseminating Dress: Britain’s Fashion Networks, 1600–1970Disseminating Dress: Britain’s Fashion Networks, 1600–1970Edited by Serena Dyer, Jade Halbert, and Sophie LittlewoodLondon: Bloomsbury, 2022 2023 Scholars’ Roundtable The “Perfect Dress” Refashioning: CFGNY and Wataru Tominaga Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
×
提示
您的信息不完整,为了账户安全,请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
现在去查看 取消
×
提示
确定
0
微信
客服QQ
Book学术公众号 扫码关注我们
反馈
×
意见反馈
请填写您的意见或建议
请填写您的手机或邮箱
已复制链接
已复制链接
快去分享给好友吧!
我知道了
×
扫码分享
扫码分享
Book学术官方微信
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号:481959085
Book学术
文献互助 智能选刊 最新文献 互助须知 联系我们:info@booksci.cn
Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务,方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。
Copyright © 2023 Book学术 All rights reserved.
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号 京ICP备2023020795号-1