半永久发色对人发半透明角蛋白膜的染色与褪色

T. Fujii, Misaki Imai, Kaori Hayashi, Yumiko Ito
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摘要

用透明的人发角蛋白膜对半永久性发色的染色和褪色进行了研究。在4种商用半永久性染发剂中,有3种产品对半透明角蛋白膜有明显的染色效果。染色时间和增加染色次数是染色深度的重要因素。用两种不同的产品对薄膜进行染色,用分光光度计分析,平均吸光度的光谱与染色顺序无关。与氧化染发产品染色相比,半永久性染发产品染色膜中未发现明显的半胱氨酸形成。将染色膜分别浸入蒸馏水和自来水中,自来水的褪色速度比蒸馏水快。自来水中添加EDTA抑制了颜色的褪色,而蒸馏水中添加氯化钙引起了颜色的褪色,说明金属离子与水的褪色密切相关。当使用太阳模拟器将染色膜暴露在人造光(300 ~ 2500 nm)下时,也观察到褪色。可以方便地测量褪色,并且变化率表明产品之间的差异。这些结果表明,半透明的角蛋白膜将有助于开发无损伤、抗水洗和较少光褪色的染发产品。
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Dyeing and Fading of Human Hair Translucent Keratin Film by Semi-Permanent Hair Colors
The dyeing and fading of semi-permanent hair colors were examined using transparent human hair keratin film. Among four kinds of commercial semi-permanent hair colors, the translucent keratin film was significantly dyed with three products. The coloring was dependent on dyeing time and increasing dyeing number, and the latter was important to gain deeper dyeing. When the film was dyed by two different products and analyzed by a spectrophotometer, spectra of the average absorbance were independent of the dyeing order. Compared with the dyeing of oxidative hair color products, no significant formation of cysteic acid was found in the films dyed with semi-permanent hair colors. When the dyed films were immersed in distilled water and tap water, the fading by tap water was faster than that by distilled water. The addition of EDTA to the tap water suppressed the color fading, whereas the addition of CaCl 2 to distilled water caused the fading, indicating that metal ions will be closely related to the fading by water. The fading was also observed when the dyed films were exposed to artificial light ( 300 ─ 2500 nm ) using a solar simulator. The fading was conveniently measured and the rate of change indicated the difference between the products. These results suggest that translucent keratin film will be useful to develop damage-free, anti-washout, and less-photofading hair color products.
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