彩虹天然染料纺织品使用植物提取物:可持续和环保的过程

J. Arora, P. Agarwal, Gunjan Gupta
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引用次数: 73

摘要

印度人一直被认为是自然染色艺术的先驱。虽然土著知识体系在过去已经实践了多年,但由于缺乏文献和准确的提取和染色技术知识,天然染料的使用已经减少了几代人。因此,天然染料在商业上并不成功。目前,所有对环境不友好的合成化合物都用于纺织染色材料。它们是不可生物降解的、致癌的、造成水污染和废物处理问题。天然染料为这些问题提供了合理的解决方案。因此,开发天然染料的提取技术及其在纺织材料上的应用势在必行。本研究尝试从多种植物中提取天然染料(如姜黄根茎、姜黄;硬果,终缘草本chebula;红花花瓣,红花;小檗的根,小檗等)使用特定的技术。对这些染料在不同纺织材料(棉、丝和羊毛)上的染色潜力进行了测试。染色采用三种不同的染色技术(预染染、同时染染和后染染),其中使用不同的媒染剂,如明矾、硫酸铜和硫酸亚铁等,将染料固定在纺织材料上。各种颜色深浅不一的天然染料形成了彩虹。为每种染料准备色卡,所获得的颜色根据所使用的媒染剂的类型和所使用的媒染剂技术而变化。
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Rainbow of Natural Dyes on Textiles Using Plants Extracts: Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Processes
Indians have been considered as forerunners in the art of natural dyeing. Although indigenous knowledge system has been practiced over the years in the past, the use of natural dyes has diminished over generations due to lack of documentation and precise knowledge of the extracting and dyeing techniques. As a result, natural dyes are not commercially successful. Presently, all environmentally unfriendly synthetic compounds are used for dyeing textile materials. They are non-biodegradable, carcinogenic and generate water pollution as well as waste disposal problems. Natural dyes provide a reasonable solution to these problems. Thus, it is imperative to develop technology for extraction of natural dyes and for their application on textile materials. In this study, attempt has been made to extract natural dyes from a variety of plants sources (such as rhizomes of turmeric, Curcuma longa; fruits of harda, Terminalia chebula; petals of safflower, Carthamus tinctorius; roots of barberry, Berberis lycium etc.) using specific techniques. These dyes were tested for their dyeing potential on different textile materials (cotton, silk and wool). Dyeing was done using three different dyeing techniques (pre-, simultaneous- and post-mordanting) wherein different mordants such as alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate etc., were used to fix dye on to the textile material. A rainbow of natural dyes was obtained with varied shades of each colour. Shade cards were prepared for each dye and the colour obtained varied depending on the type of the mordant applied and the mordanting technique used.
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