Taking Advantage of Natural Biodiversity for Wine Making: The WILDWINE Project

Fermentation processes have proceeded without microbiological control until starter cultures came up in 19th Century. However, in some processes, such as wine making a widespread use of starter cultures did not come up until the end of the 20th Century, when the cellar-friendly active dry wine yeast (ADWY) were available. However, this practice was challenged for the uniformity that brought a limited number of commercially available presentations and new tendencies in wine making have withdrawn the use of ADWY. The return to non-controlled wine fermentations may have considerable set backs especially in terms of economical losses, as these wines have much higher risks of presenting different levels of spoilage (presence of unwanted compounds that will be organoleptically detectable) that will not be acceptable for the consumer.

The WILDWINE Project (EU contract 315065) proposed a system to overcome the criticism on the uniformity after use of ADWY by bringing “wild” microorganisms to the starter culture practice. The Project proposed mixed cultures as an alternative to single strain cultures that is the usual practice for starter cultures. This multi-strain and multi-species starter cultures aimed at reproducing the vineyard natural microbiota with the advantage of a selection of those strains and species that could add complexity to the final wines. The WILDWINE Project has focused the selection of this “wild” microorganism in 5 worldwide-recognised wine regions: Nemea and Crete (Greece), Piedmont (Italy), Bordeaux (France) and Priorat (Spain). The basic protocol was the same for all the regions: (i) to establish the natural biodiversity of the regions and determine the “microbial fingerprint” of the region, (ii) oenological screening of all the strains and species isolates to determine their quality for the wine making process and (iii) to use the microbial cocktails at pilot plants and in commercial cellars to determine the “microbial footprint” that the “wild” microorganisms leave on the final wines.

In the Priorat region, a limited number of different strains from Saccharomyces cerevisiae were detected after sampling cellars and vineyards in two different harvests (2012 and 2013). These low number of S. cerevisiae strains is in sharp contrast with the high biodiversity observed in the same area 18 years before when a selection of strains of this species was preformed to provide a commercial “autochthonous” strain for the Priorat region. Furthermore, the main species found in the vineyards were the yeast-like fungus Aerobasidium pullulans and Hanseniaspora uvarum. A. pullulans disappeared when grapes were turned into must and then H. uvarum and Candida zemplinina were the main species. Minority species found in musts and later in wines were Metschnokowia pulcherrima and Torulaspora delbrueckii.