The Passing: The Evocative Worlds of Ebony Patterson’s Dancehall Egúngún

Sarah Clunis, Lissette Acosta Corniel, Rebecca Blackwell, Alessandra Rosa, Elizabeth Aranda, L. L. López Martínez, Cécile Accilien, G. Anatol, Sabine Lamour, Alexandria Miller
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Abstract

Abstract:In 2010, Jamaican artist Ebony Patterson lost her father. This shifted her art significantly, and she recalls that, for the first time, she began to work with death in her practice. Her new body of work, elegantly ornamented tapestries, evokes spectral disembodied figures, elaborately coiffed and assembled with glitter, plastic, cotton, and glass. What is unexpected about the complicated tapestry of ideas in Patterson’s work is that, through its use of cloth to memorialize death, it offers an evocative connection to the use of adornment and clothing in dancehall culture and its connection to both Jonkonnu and Egúngún masquerade traditions. My analysis of Patterson’s work looks at the prominence of cloth and ornamentation in Egúngún masquerade traditions in Nigeria and within the cultural sphere of the Jamaican Jonkonnu masquerades of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. This analysis links the expensive and abundant uses of cloth in the design of highly embellished Nigerian Egúngún costumes to similar traditions within Jamaican Jonkonnu masking and argues that the aesthetics of both traditions (in the form of adorned maskers) creates a body that acts as an agent of social control, communicating important ideas about kinship, masculinity, wealth, violence, and death. Through this examination of excessively embellished cloth and its historical connection to memorializing kinship connections, solidifying community relations, and simultaneously communicating wealth, aggression, and a hypermasculinity, I suggest that not only is Patterson creating Egúngún with her work but that our understanding of the popular expressive culture of men’s fashion within dancehall culture is not a feminized expression at all, but a hypermasculine Africanized expression which champions flamboyant and excessively adorned expressions of dress, while at the same time solidifying community kinships, exhibiting wealth, and memorializing the deceased.
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逝去:乌木·帕特森舞厅的唤起世界Egúngún
摘要:2010年,牙买加艺术家Ebony Patterson失去了父亲。这极大地改变了她的艺术,她回忆说,这是她第一次开始在她的实践中与死亡打交道。她的新作品,优雅装饰的挂毯,唤起幽灵般的无实体的人物,精心梳理和组装的闪光,塑料,棉花和玻璃。帕特森作品中错综复杂的思想令人意想不到的是,通过使用布料来纪念死亡,它与舞厅文化中装饰和服装的使用以及与Jonkonnu和Egúngún假面舞会传统的联系提供了一种令人难忘的联系。我对帕特森作品的分析着眼于布料和装饰在Egúngún尼日利亚假面舞会传统中的突出地位,以及在18世纪和19世纪牙买加Jonkonnu假面舞会的文化领域。这一分析将尼日利亚Egúngún服装设计中布料的昂贵和大量使用与牙买加Jonkonnu面具的类似传统联系起来,并认为这两种传统的美学(以装饰面具的形式)创造了一个充当社会控制代理人的身体,传达了关于亲属、男子气概、财富、暴力和死亡的重要思想。通过对过度修饰的布料及其与纪念亲属关系、巩固社区关系、同时传达财富、侵略和超级男子气概的历史联系的研究,我认为帕特森不仅用她的作品创造了Egúngún,而且我们对舞厅文化中流行的男性时尚表达文化的理解根本不是女性化的表达,而是一种极度男性化的非洲化的表达方式,这种表达方式拥护华丽和过分装饰的服装,同时巩固社区的亲属关系,展示财富,纪念死者。
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