The Volumetric Analysis of the Human Body as Starting Point for Clothing Pattern Design

Abstract

The paper presents evaluation of the overall and microclimatic volume changes due to different upper limb positions simulating functional reaching movements for the aircrew personnel. The study was performed in order to evaluate the needed ease allowance added to chest and waist circumference for outerwear garments in order to fully achieve the wearing comfort. The accurate 3D body scanning was used and the impact of the upper limb position on microclimatic volume distribution was tested. The scanning data process was performed using a 3D laser scanner and a computer analysis. The raw scans were processed and reconstructed. After the scan reconstruction, the volume and the area were calculated. The experimental study covered the objective measuring methods: the material testing, the 3D scanning, the scan reverse engineering modelling and the volume/area calculation. The volume calculations included both the overall volume calculation for the unclothed torso and for the torso dressed in the chosen outerwear jacket. It also included the volume calculation of an air layer formed between second and third layered garments. The clothing ensemble CE 0 is the control variable, the unclothed body. The CE 1 is the clothing ensemble combined from the underlying basic garments (undershirt, underpants, classical male business shirt, and jeans) and combined with the bomber jacket. The three human subjects with the analogous body proportions (the height of 185 cm and chest girth of 100 cm) were scanned using the 3D laser body scanner Vitus Smart (Human Solutions GmbH) in an upright standing position according to ISO 20685:2010 changing only upper limb positions simulating functional reaching movements for the aircrew personnel.