Determination of The Effect of Dyeing and Finishing Processes on Physical, Mechanical, Handle, Comfort and Functional Properties of Cotton Knitted Fabrics

Durul Büşra Dilden, M. F. Yüksel, Seda Keskin, Uğur Ergünay, Rıza Atav
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Abstract

As it is known, the most widely used dye class for dyeing cotton fabrics is reactive dyes. However, the reactive dyeing process itself and various finishing processes applied after dyeing affects the physical, mechanical, handle, comfort and functional properties of the fabrics. Therefore, the main aim of this study was to determine the dyeing and finishing processes on the quality-performance characteristics of the cotton knitted fabrics. For this aim, physical (weight, wale/course density), mechanical (bursting strength, pilling, abrasion resistance), handle (bending rigidity), comfort (thermal comfort, air permeability, water vapor permeability) and functional (Ultraviolet protective functionality and flame retardancy of the fabrics) properties of fabrics were tested before and after dyeing and finishing processes. Fabric weight and bursting strength values increases after dyeing and finishing processes due to the shrinkage of the fabrics during wet processing. On the other hand, the pilling and abrasion resistance values ​​of fabrics are not significantly affected by dyeing and finishing processes. Another important result obtained is that the bending length and bending stiffness of the fabrics decrease after dyeing/finishing processes. The thickness values ​​of the fabrics decrease after dyeing-finishing processes and therefore the thermal resistance decreases. It was observed that the air permeability of the fabrics significantly decreased after dyeing-finishing processes. However, the water vapor permeability of the fabrics was decreased very slightly after dyeing and finishing processes. UPF ratings were increased after dyeing and finishing processes. Keywords: Cotton, dyeing, color, functionality, permeability
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染整工艺对棉针织织物物理、机械、手感、舒适性和功能性能影响的测定
众所周知,最广泛用于棉织物染色的染料是活性染料。然而,活性染色工艺本身和染色后的各种整理工艺会影响织物的物理、机械、手感、舒适性和功能性能。因此,本研究的主要目的是确定染整工艺对棉针织织物质量性能的影响。为此,在染整前后测试了织物的物理性能(重量、织物/织物密度)、机械性能(破裂强度、起球性、耐磨性)、处理性能(弯曲刚度)、舒适性(热舒适性、透气性、水蒸气渗透性)和功能性(织物的紫外线防护功能和阻燃性)。由于织物在湿法加工过程中的收缩,织物的重量和破裂强度值在染色和整理后增加。另一方面,织物的起球和耐磨性值受染整工艺的影响不大。另一个重要的结果是织物在染整后的弯曲长度和弯曲刚度减小。织物经染整处理后,其厚度值降低,热阻降低。经染整处理后,织物的透气性明显降低。但经染整处理后,织物的透气性略有下降。经染整处理后,UPF等级提高。关键词:棉,染色,色彩,功能性,渗透性
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