Landmarking and Measuring for Critical Body Shape Analysis Targeting Garment Fit

Abstract

Industry 4.0 points to manufacturing that embraces both automation and customization yet apparel industries continue to be inhibited by the necessity for trial-and-error fittings to correct garment fit and while 3D technologies have gone far to automate fitting workflows, an inability to quantify body shape continues to plague automation integration. This paper explains why traditional methods of relating anthropometry to a 2D pattern are the root cause of poor garment fit and presents a solution for mathematically quantifying both body shape and garment fit. With an eye towards mass garment customization, and the theory that any pattern should be customizable for any human shape, theories on the relationship of 1D anthropometry and 2D block pattern were continuously re-trialed and honed over a thirty-year bespoke garment design/patter-making career. The methods presented were developed by combining common practices of triangulated pattern development with fabric draping and origami. A novel method of pattern block making was developed and found to be effective for accurate replication of body shape. Testing of the Clone Block TM proved successful for both men and women of a variety of sizes, making it gender neutral and well suited to automation. Landmarking and measuring requirements are mostly within the boundaries of ISO standards with a few novel requirements. While time intensive for hand measuring, the process is well suited for scanned measurement data and virtual environments. The Clone Block TM offers a critical assessment of body shape for automated garment fit, improved virtual size selection, more realistic virtual fittings, the optimizing of twin avatars to clones, and mass garment customization.