Intensive study of dangerous swells using a swell warning system

Abstract

High swell is often generated offshore and damages the east coasts of Korea and accidents, a correct prediction of dangerous swells should be done before they approach to the shore. Recently, a warning system to countermeasure dangerous swells is setup on the east coast of Korea with simultaneous in-situ wave measurements at the northeast site of Ulleung offshore island and at Hupo nearshore station. By analyzing these intensive wave observation data and wave prediction model results, detailed swell characteristics are studied in the East coast of Korea. Calculated wave data by the system are compared to the wave data predicted using wind input data and observed wave data at nearshore station.