The Restoration of Yeo-gi’s Black-Jangsam Recorded in Akhak-Gwebeom in the Early Joseon Dynasty

Abstract

Black-Jangsam(黑長衫) means a long black robe. It is a garment worn by a Yeo-gi, a female dancer in charge of dancing at a court banquet in the early Joseon Dynasty. Akhak-gwebeom was compiled in the 24th year of King Seongjong (1493) and comprehensively defined court music and dance in the Joseon Dynasty. In Volume 9 of this book, 「Gwanbok-doseol (冠服圖說)」, the costumes of musicians and dancers are explained with pictures and text. The size, color, shape, and fabric of Black-Jangsam worn by the Yeo-gi are specified in the part of ‘Yeo-gi’s dress (女妓服飾).’ Among the previous studies on Akhak-gwebeom, there has yet to be a study on historical research and production of Black-Jangsam. Therefore, in this study, Yeo-gi’s Black-Jangsam and belt in the early Joseon Dynasty were determined by referring to the illustrations contained in 『Akhak Gwebeom』, other pictorial materials, and excavated artifacts, and the Yeo-gi’s Black-Jangsam and belt in the early Joseon Dynasty were produced. The type and size of the ruler are first determined when making clothes, and there is a record of using a Pobaek-cheok (布帛尺) in Akhak-Gwebeom, so this study followed. In the early Joseon Dynasty, one cheok (尺) of Pobaek-cheok was approximately 46.66cm. In the picture and description of Black-Jangsam in 「Gwanbok-doseol」 of Akhak-gwebeom, the dimensions of the total length, sleeve length, back width, back under line’s width, sleeve end’s width, and the length and width of the belt are confirmed. These dimensions were converted into Pobaek-cheok and applied to the production of clothes. In addition, detailed shapes and dimensions that were not confirmed in Akhak-gwebeom were applied by examining reference artifacts. The fabric for restoration was made of Sa (紗), a thin fabric, based on the records. The belt was restored with red Cho (綃) based on the record. The pattern of the belt was a round pattern (圓紋), and it was expressed using the technique of Bugeum (附金).