Identification of fibers and dyes in archaeological textiles from Bazhou, Xinjiang (220-420 CE), and their Silk Road origins

Abstract

Textiles unearthed along the Silk Road are important material evidence of the spread and exchange of cultures in ancient Eurasia. This paper examines fibers and natural dyes in archaeological textiles from the Wei and Jin dynasties (220–420 CE) unearthed in Bazhou, a major route in the Xinjiang region of the ancient Silk Road. Optical microscope (OM), scanning electron microscope (SEM), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), and proteomics analysis were used to examine and compare ancient and modern fibers. The result showed that the ancient textile samples tested consisted of silk, wool and cotton. Two species of silk were accurately identified, Bombyx mori silk and Bombyx mandarina silk. In addition, dyes were extracted from textile artifacts using a mild extraction method and analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with a diode array detector and a mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS). As a result, the identified red dyes can be divided into plant dyes and insect dyes, such as Rubia cordifolia, Rubia tinctorum and Kermes vermilio. The yellow dyes identified were derived from plants such as Reseda luteola, Phellodendron chinense, Phellodendron amurense, Berberis spp. The blue dyes identified in these textiles indicate the presence of indigo. These dyes are not only local, but also many exotic dyes from central or eastern China, and even from the Mediterranean coast. This study reveals the diversity of fibers and natural dyes used in the historic Lop Nor area of Bazhou, providing insights into their species origination and distribution.