Borne Out with Whalebone: A Late Sixteenth-Century Farthingale Sleeve

Costume Pub Date : 2024-03-01 DOI:10.3366/cost.2024.0284
Ninya Mikhaila
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Abstract

An extant farthingale sleeve support and a silk satin sleeve to wear over it form part of a collection of garments still owned by the Willoughby family to which it originally belonged in the 1590s or early 1600s. This paper provides an insight into its history as part of the Willoughby women’s wardrobe and a technical description of its materials, manufacture and current form. Its construction matches contemporary documentary evidence for farthingale sleeves which were assumed to form part of elite dress. Evidence presented here suggests that the fashion moved rapidly through society and became a feature of ordinary women’s dress by the early seventeenth century.
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用鲸骨制成十六世纪晚期的法丁格尔袖套
威洛比家族在 15 世纪 90 年代或 16 世纪早期曾收藏过一件现存的法丁格尔袖套和一件丝缎袖套,该袖套和丝缎袖套是威洛比家族服装收藏的一部分。本文介绍了它作为威洛比女装的一部分的历史,并对其材料、制作和当前形式进行了技术描述。它的结构与当代文献中的法丁格尔袖相吻合,而法丁格尔袖被认为是精英服饰的一部分。这里提供的证据表明,这种时尚在社会中迅速发展,到 17 世纪早期已成为普通女性服饰的一部分。
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Little Black Dress: A Radical Fashion, ed. by Georgina Ripley Liz Tregenza, Wholesale Couture London and Beyond, 1930–1970 Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell, Skirts: Fashioning Modern Femininity in the Twentieth Century Katia Johansen, Ten King's Clothes: Royal Danish Dress, 1596–1863 Borne Out with Whalebone: A Late Sixteenth-Century Farthingale Sleeve
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