Wear and Tear: Life Stories and Sartorial Experiences in the First World War

Costume Pub Date : 2024-03-01 DOI:10.3366/cost.2024.0286
Rachel Neal
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Abstract

During the First World War, 1914–1918, the British Army uniform provided an important tool in the transition from civilian to soldier and a symbol of a mass collective identity. However, soldier writings from the war and post-war years reveal the more individual experiences of their uniforms and the intimate relationships that formed between their physicality and the materiality of the garment. Focusing on the uniform experiences of British servicemen during the First World War, this article explores the narratives recorded in soldier correspondence, diaries and life writing to discover how men, despite wearing military uniform, continued to express the sartorial identities and practices developed as civilians. The uniform was central to soldiers’ physicality and their writings show that the materiality of the uniform became a conduit for their sensory and haptic experiences of the landscape around them. Yet the uniform remained only a temporary sartorial shift and, underneath, civilian identities and sensibilities remained resolute. Evidence of sartorial interventions and personalization expose the attempts to ameliorate the fit and feel of the uniform. Shining a light on these narratives of the uniform on a more personal and affective level challenges us to reconsider the boundaries between uniformity and individuality.
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磨损:第一次世界大战中的生活故事和服饰体验
在 1914-1918 年的第一次世界大战期间,英国军队的制服为从平民到士兵的转变提供了一个重要的工具,也是大众集体身份的象征。然而,战时和战后的士兵著作揭示了他们对军装更多的个人体验,以及他们的身体与服装的物质性之间形成的亲密关系。本文以第一次世界大战期间英国军人的军装经历为重点,探讨了士兵通信、日记和生活写作中记录的叙事,以发现士兵们如何在穿着军装的同时,继续表达作为平民发展起来的服饰身份和习俗。军装是士兵身体的核心,他们的文章显示,军装的物质性成为他们对周围景观的感官和触觉体验的渠道。然而,军装只是一种暂时的服饰转变,在其背后,平民的身份和情感依然坚定不移。服饰干预和个性化的证据揭示了人们试图改善制服的合身性和感觉。从更加个人化和情感化的层面来审视这些制服叙事,对我们重新考虑制服与个性之间的界限提出了挑战。
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