Innovations in the Design of Pleated Clothing Using Digital Printing and Dyeing Technology

Wei Chang, Xubing Xu
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Abstract

Pleating technology plays a major role in the design of pleated clothing. Also known as wrinkle clothing design, pleating is a high temperature process that has been significantly influenced by progress in science and technology. The combination of pattern design and pleating through the use of digital printing and dyeing technology has become a key aspect of the visual presentation, embodiment of style, and decorative art associated with pleated clothing. This paper explores the historical background and performance of the technologies used in the pleating process, and examines the various modeling techniques that have been brought to bear. The principal innovations in the pleating process can be divided up into shaping, shrinking, and decorative technologies. The relationship between changes in pleating and clothing patterns is also discussed, together with how design thinking has approached the craft of overlaying patterns on pleated clothing. Depending on the clothing and kind of technology being used, there are three main ways in which innovative design can be applied to the pleating process: to create geometric clothing patterns; to create basic clothing patterns; and through the superposition of shrinking technology. A Chinese design case is presented to illustrate how the integration of technology and art can be realized. This paper may serve as a source of future reference for technological innovation in the design of pleated clothing.
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利用数码印染技术设计百褶服装的创新方法
褶皱技术在褶皱服装设计中发挥着重要作用。打褶也被称为皱褶服装设计,是一种受科技进步影响较大的高温工艺。通过使用数码印染技术,将图案设计与打褶相结合,已成为打褶服装的视觉呈现、风格体现和装饰艺术的一个重要方面。本文探讨了褶皱工艺所使用技术的历史背景和性能,并研究了所采用的各种造型技术。打褶工艺的主要创新可分为定型、缩褶和装饰技术。此外,还讨论了褶皱变化与服装图案之间的关系,以及设计思维如何处理在褶皱服装上叠加图案的工艺。根据所使用的服装和技术种类,创新设计在打褶工艺中的应用主要有三种方式:创造几何服装图案;创造基本服装图案;以及通过收缩技术的叠加。本文介绍了一个中国设计案例,以说明如何实现技术与艺术的融合。本文可作为未来褶皱服装设计技术创新的参考资料。
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