Culinary Authenticity and Diaspora: A Preliminary Enquiry

Anupama Thampi Preetha, Anderleen Diana Lazarus
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Abstract

Food has traversed across boundaries with the advent of globalization. Food from various countries is now accessible to people across the globe, irrespective of the vast difference in culture or taste. Exposure to new kinds of food has become commonplace since migration, food trade and marketing expanded. Diasporic groups who migrate for different reasons carry their culture along, that they either spread the same in the immigrant country or seek nostalgic relief through food, lifestyle, relationships etc. Nonetheless, the mother culture and corresponding food habits do travel with people, more so if their occupation is related to food. While that happens, there’s always the burning question of authenticity of food. Some believe that a dish cooked by a native of a particular cuisine is authentic, some others consider use of traditional ingredients makes a dish authentic. In the context of globalisation, culinary ways, recipes and ingredients are borrowed and integrated across cultures. Due to these transactions, presuppositions on culinary authenticity are plenty and dynamic among stakeholders of the food industry, be it an immigrant consumer, culinary expert, food critic or a restaurateur. This paper attempts to study the various aspects concerning culinary authenticity and diaspora, analysing viewpoints of the stakeholders.
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烹饪的真实性与散居地:初步调查
随着全球化的到来,食物已经跨越了国界。现在,无论文化或口味有多大差异,全球各地的人们都能品尝到来自不同国家的美食。随着移民、食品贸易和营销的扩大,接触新种类的食品已成为司空见惯的事情。出于不同原因移民的散居群体会携带自己的文化,他们或者在移民国家传播同样的文化,或者通过食物、生活方式、人际关系等寻求怀旧的慰藉。尽管如此,母体文化和相应的饮食习惯确实会随人们一起迁徙,如果他们的职业与饮食有关,情况就会更加严重。在这种情况下,食物的真实性始终是个棘手的问题。有些人认为,由某一特定菜系的本地人烹饪的菜肴才是正宗的,还有一些人认为,使用传统配料的菜肴才是正宗的。在全球化背景下,烹饪方式、食谱和配料在不同文化间相互借鉴和融合。由于这些交易,食品行业的利益相关者,无论是移民消费者、烹饪专家、美食评论家还是餐馆老板,对烹饪真实性的预设都是大量的、动态的。本文试图通过分析利益相关者的观点,研究有关烹饪真实性和移民社群的各个方面。
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