The biomechanics of splitting hairs

Abstract

Splitting of hair, creating ‘split ends’, is a very common problem which has been extensively documented. However, the mechanics underlying the splitting phenomenon are poorly understood. This is partly owing to the lack of a test in which splitting can be generated and quantified under laboratory conditions. We developed three new tests, known as ‘loop tensile’, ‘moving loop’ and ‘moving loop fatigue’, aiming to simulate the mechanical environment of tangles of hair strands during combing. We tested straight strands of human hair, comparing low-quality hair (from a subject who experienced split ends) with hair from a control (non-splitting) subject. Significant differences were found, especially in the moving loop fatigue test where the low-quality hair failed in fewer cycles. Splitting occurred in both types of hair, but with the crucial difference that in the low-quality hair, splits originated inside the hair strand and propagated longitudinally over considerable distances, while in the control hair, splits originated at the strand surface and remained short. Bleaching of the control hair changed its behaviour, making it similar to that of the low-quality hair. Some simple calculations emphasized the role of longitudinal shear stress and shear stress intensity in generating microcracks which could then propagate within the moving loop, paving the way for a future theoretical model of the splitting mechanism.