On reversal of wave-generated longshore currents at tidal frequencies on dissipative beaches contiguous to a mesotidal estuary, S.E coast of Nigeria

Abstract

Reversals in wave-generated longshore currents in surf zones occur at different temporal and spatial scales. Along coastlines with tidal channel openings with well-developed mouth bars or ebb-tidal deltas, the reversal mechanism is often attributed to the mouth bar – induced refraction of the shoaling waves. This reversal mechanism is characterized by convergence of longshore currents from the adjoining surf zones at the mouth of the tidal channel. Simultaneous half-hourly monitoring of wave-generated longshore currents over 50 successive (daylight) semi-diurnal tidal cycles in beach surf zones adjoining the Qua Iboe River estuary, S.E coast of Nigeria showed the above reversal pattern during flooding stage only. The converse pattern, where the surf zone longshore currents diverged away from the mouth of the estuary, was observed during ebbing stage. Both surf zones showed flow direction inversion with respect to each other, with velocity vector correlation coefficient r > − 0.8 in over 80 % of the data set. Instances of comparable flow direction (<10 %) were also recorded. Tidal processes are implicated in the documented results. Direction-averaged longshore current velocities, typically in the 15–60 cm/s range, attained highest values in both surf zones at about spring tide phase. Also, tidal cycle-residual longshore current maximum and minimum velocities occurred close to spring and neap tide, respectively. Only 30 % of the residual velocities were eastward directed in the up-drift surf zone as against 80 % in the down-drift counterpart. Given the prevailing southwesterly waves, the present results negate the assertion that reversal in longshore current direction in this offset shoreline setting is exclusively a consequence of wave refraction by mouth bar morphology. The reversing pattern of the longshore currents over a tidal cycle is well explained by incorporating interacting effects of shoaling waves with tide-induced oscillations in water level as well as the estuarine flow.