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Extreme wave events inferred from large subaerial carbonate boulders on a rocky coast in Pasuquin, Ilocos Norte, Philippines 从菲律宾北伊洛科斯省帕苏昆的岩石海岸上的大型陆上碳酸盐岩巨石推断出的极端波浪事件
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2026-01-06 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2026.107704
Edrian M. Tubalado , Noelynna T. Ramos , Lyndon P. Nawanao Jr. , Ace Matthew F. Cantillep , Alec Benjamin G. Ramirez , Jelian S. Reyes , Kathrine V. Maxwell , Shou-Yeh Gong , Tsai-Luen Yu , Chuan-Chou Shen
Coastal boulder deposits serve as sedimentary markers of extreme wave events (EWEs), with their morphological analysis offering valuable insights into the nature of these events. In the coastal regions of Pasuquin, Ilocos Norte, and other parts of northwest Luzon Island in the Philippines, extensive fields of large carbonate boulders are often found on Holocene emergent reefs. We studied 198 carbonate boulders at two boulder field sites in Pasuquin (Davila and Dilavo). The emergent fringing reef, at an elevation of between −0.21 below to 1.5 m above mean sea level across the platform (corrected from the Currimao tide station), is characterized by spur-and-groove morphology with solution pans/pools, and occasional fossil microatolls. Boulders had varying orientations and were mostly flat blocks in shape, with the largest measured boulder weighing up to 31.49 t. Based on their overall shape, composition, and observed tilting/overturning, these boulders are inferred to have been sourced from the underlying reef platform. Spatial statistics, bivariate statistics, and frequency distribution of carbonate boulders in Dilavo (south boulder field) show clustering with multimodal weight distribution and include more boulders weighing over 9 t compared to Davila (north boulder field). Framework corals comprising the boulders reveal 230Th ages between 1262.6 ± 4.8 and 2815.9 ± 6.7 YBP (relative to 1950 CE), which may indicate the timing of initial displacement and deposition due to an extreme overwash event. Meanwhile, fossil corals within the emergent reef have ages between 444.9 ± 1.8 and 677.9 ± 2.2 YBP, possibly indicating a younger uplift event after boulder displacement and subsequent emplacement. This new information on the spatial distribution and morphology of large carbonate boulders in northern Luzon provides additional insights into the characteristics of past EWEs and may be useful in understanding and preparing for future coastal hazards in the region.
海岸巨石沉积物是极端波浪事件(ewe)的沉积标志,其形态分析为这些事件的性质提供了有价值的见解。在菲律宾的Pasuquin, Ilocos north的沿海地区和吕宋岛西北部的其他地区,在全新世涌现的珊瑚礁上经常发现大面积的大型碳酸盐巨石。我们在Pasuquin的两个巨石场(Davila和Dilavo)研究了198个碳酸盐岩巨石。突出边缘礁位于平均海平面以下- 0.21 ~ 1.5 m之间(由Currimao潮汐站校正),以刺槽形态为特征,有溶液盘/池,偶有微环礁化石。巨石的方向各异,形状大多为扁平块,测量到的最大巨石重达31.49吨。根据它们的整体形状、成分和观察到的倾斜/倾覆,推断这些巨石来自下面的礁台地。Dilavo(南部boulder田)碳酸盐岩抱石的空间统计、二元统计和频率分布均显示出多模态重量分布的聚类性,并且与Davila(北部boulder田)相比,Dilavo(南部boulder田)碳酸盐岩抱石的重量大于9 t。构成巨石的框架珊瑚显示230年代在1262.6±4.8至2815.9±6.7 YBP之间(相对于1950 CE),这可能表明由于极端冲过事件导致的初始位移和沉积时间。同时,涌现礁内的化石珊瑚年龄在444.9±1.8 ~ 677.9±2.2 YBP之间,可能表明在巨石位移和侵位之后发生了更年轻的隆升事件。这一关于吕宋岛北部大型碳酸盐巨石空间分布和形态的新信息为了解过去ewe的特征提供了额外的见解,可能有助于了解该地区未来的沿海灾害并为其做好准备。
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引用次数: 0
A new and more accurate overfill ratio for beach nourishments and its comparison with James' RA 一个新的和更准确的海滩营养的溢填比及其与詹姆斯的RA的比较
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2026-01-06 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2026.107705
Antonio Contreras-de-Villar , Enzo Pranzini , Giorgio Anfuso , Juan J. Muñoz-Perez
Pranzini et al. (2018) designed a method, for borrowed sediment selection in beach nourishment projects, that solved the problems inherent to James' abacus (1975). However, it suffered in turn from the lack of an overfill ratio. A new and more accurate methodology is presented here to calculate the mentioned ratio. To demonstrate the implications of the new proposed method, the overfill ratios calculated are compared with those obtained using the method of James (RA) for nine beaches and nourished sands with different granulometries. The comparison showed that the method of James (1975) predicted a much larger fraction of the borrow sediment to be unstable, thus requiring higher nourishment volumes to achieve a certain beach width and implying increased economic costs.
Pranzini等人(2018)设计了一种方法,用于海滩营养项目中借来的沉积物选择,解决了James' abacus(1975)固有的问题。然而,它反过来又因缺乏溢满率而受到影响。本文提出了一种新的更精确的方法来计算上述比率。为了证明新建议方法的影响,我们将计算的过填率与使用James (RA)方法获得的过填率进行了比较,其中包括9个不同粒度的海滩和营养砂。通过比较可知,James(1975)的方法预测的借来泥沙不稳定的比例要大得多,因此需要更高的营养体积才能达到一定的滩宽,这意味着经济成本的增加。
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引用次数: 0
Integrating the Bruun rule with sediment compatibility analysis for shoreline change evaluation under water level fall 结合Bruun规则和泥沙相容性分析的水位下降下岸线变化评价
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2026-01-05 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107701
Hesamodin Enayatighadikolaei , Takayuki Suzuki , Martin Mäll , Mohsen Soltanpour
Shoreline progradation in enclosed basins such as the Caspian Sea—driven by climate-induced hydrological change—poses unique challenges for coastal prediction, as most existing models were developed for water-level rise and open-coast dynamics. The original Bruun rule assumes a closed sediment budget and therefore tends to overpredict shoreline advance under falling water levels, overlooking the offshore loss of finer sediment fractions. To address this gap, the study introduces a new index, the Compatibility Index (CI), and integrates it into the Bruun rule, comparing six CI methods across six sandy and two sandy–gravel monitoring stations. While the Bruun rule was originally designed for sandy beaches, its applicability was extended here to mixed sand–gravel profiles. A practical decision framework—combining acceptable CI ranges from three prioritized methods and local bed slope—identifies an optimal CI (CIO) for each station. Shoreline change from 2013 to 2022 was tracked using cross-shore profiles and high-resolution satellite imagery. Incorporating the CIO into the Bruun rule reduced root mean square error from 61.3 m to 21.4 m, mean absolute error from 49.0 m to 16.6 m, and mean bias error from 49.0 m to 14.6 m, improving prediction accuracy by 73.2%. The resulting model delivers robust, site-specific shoreline forecasts and provides a practical tool for coastal managers planning setback zones or adaptation strategies in enclosed-basin environments, while offering a transferable framework for similar settings worldwide.
里海等封闭盆地的海岸线进退是由气候引起的水文变化驱动的,这给沿海预测带来了独特的挑战,因为大多数现有模型都是针对水位上升和开放海岸动态而开发的。最初的布鲁恩规则假设了一个封闭的泥沙收支,因此倾向于过度预测水位下降下的海岸线推进,忽略了近海较细泥沙组分的损失。为了解决这一差距,该研究引入了一个新的指标,即相容性指数(CI),并将其整合到Bruun规则中,比较了六个砂质监测站和两个砂质砾石监测站的六种CI方法。虽然布鲁恩规则最初是为沙滩设计的,但它的适用性在这里扩展到混合砂砾剖面。一个实用的决策框架——结合可接受的CI范围,从三种优先方法和局部床坡度——确定每个站点的最佳CI (CIO)。研究人员利用跨海岸剖面和高分辨率卫星图像追踪了2013年至2022年的海岸线变化。将CIO纳入Bruun规则后,均方根误差从61.3 m降至21.4 m,平均绝对误差从49.0 m降至16.6 m,平均偏置误差从49.0 m降至14.6 m,预测精度提高73.2%。由此产生的模型提供了可靠的、特定地点的海岸线预测,并为沿海管理者在封闭盆地环境中规划挫折带或适应战略提供了实用工具,同时为全球类似环境提供了可转移的框架。
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引用次数: 0
Sedimentation behavior of deep-sea mining plumes in a marine ionic environment: Insights from the west Philippine Basin 海洋离子环境下深海采矿柱的沉积行为:来自西菲律宾盆地的见解
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2026-01-02 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107703
Ning Ma , Xian Zhang , Zhengqi Wu , Xuguang Chen , Xingzheng Gao , Fengpeng Zhang
Benthic plumes generated by deep-sea polymetallic nodule mining pose significant threats to the marine ecological environment and represent one of the primary challenges hindering the commercialization of deep-sea mining. This study investigates the sedimentation behavior of deep-sea sediment plumes in the West Philippine Basin to assess the potential environmental impacts of mining activities. The results reveal that the presence of marine inorganic salts markedly enhances the sedimentation efficiency of suspended sediment particles, and the settling rate in seawater was approximately two to three times higher than that in pure water, highlighting the strong promotion effect of inorganic ions—especially divalent cations such as Ca2+ and Mg2+—on particle aggregation and sedimentation efficiency. A characteristic thickness parameter introduced through numerical simulations quantitatively describes interparticle electrostatic interactions and provides a predictive tool for plume-settling behavior under different salinity and concentration conditions. By linking plume sedimentation kinetics with marine physicochemical processes, this study enhances understanding of how electrochemical properties of particles influence plume motion and dispersion in deep-sea environments.
深海多金属结核开采产生的底栖生物羽流对海洋生态环境构成严重威胁,是阻碍深海采矿商业化的主要挑战之一。本研究研究了西菲律宾盆地深海沉积物羽流的沉积行为,以评估采矿活动对环境的潜在影响。结果表明,海洋无机盐的存在显著提高了悬浮泥沙颗粒的沉降效率,其在海水中的沉降速率约为纯水中的2 ~ 3倍,凸显了无机离子尤其是Ca2+、Mg2+等二价阳离子对悬浮泥沙颗粒聚集和沉降效率的强烈促进作用。通过数值模拟引入的特征厚度参数定量描述了颗粒间静电相互作用,为不同盐度和浓度条件下的羽流沉降行为提供了预测工具。通过将羽流沉积动力学与海洋物理化学过程联系起来,本研究增强了对深海环境中颗粒电化学性质如何影响羽流运动和扩散的认识。
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引用次数: 0
Control of sediment supply and fault-controlled topography on the evolution of undulating bedforms in the Eastern Shenhu Slope, northern South China Sea 南海北部神狐坡东部坡面起伏地貌演化中的沉积物供给控制与断层地形控制
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-26 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107702
Kunwen Luo , Ming Su , Shan Liu , Zhi Lin Ng , Zhixuan Lin , Ce Wang , Hui Chen , Haiteng Zhuo
Depositional and erosional bedforms are prevalent in submarine environments worldwide, and have the potential to preserve critical records of continental margin evolution, ocean circulation, climate variability, and paleo-geohazards. However, the origin and evolution of such bedforms remain debated. This study employs high-resolution three-dimensional seismic reflection data to investigate the origin, evolution, and controlling factors of undulating bedforms on the eastern Shenhu slope, northern South China Sea. Morphometric analyses of these bedforms, as well as morphometric-based calculating of turbidity currents velocity, distinguish them as turbidity current-generated bedforms. Initiated since Marine Isotope Stage (MIS) 38 (horizon SB3) until the present, bedforms on the Shenhu slope are divided into two stages: (1) from MIS 38 to MIS 20 (horizons SB3–SB4), where erosional crescentic scours and elongated troughs, are formed under vigorous turbidity currents; (2) from MIS 12 to the present (horizon SB5–seafloor), where depositional bedforms, sediment waves, with near-linear crests, formed under relatively weaker current. Their evolution was governed by the interplay of the progradation of the paleo-Pearl River shelf-edge delta and the development of a horsetail normal fault system in the upper slope, with an increase in sediment supply since 1.6 Ma and a decrease in fault activity between 2.58 Ma until 474 ka (MIS 12). Fault-controlled conduits enhanced current velocity and erosion until MIS 20, which transitioned into unconfined flows and depositional waves as faults were progressively buried. These findings highlight the pivotal roles of sediment supply and seafloor topography in shaping deep-water sedimentary systems, offering insights into the sedimentary dynamics on continental margins.
沉积和侵蚀床型在全球海底环境中普遍存在,并有可能保存大陆边缘演化、海洋环流、气候变化和古地质灾害的重要记录。然而,这种床型的起源和演化仍有争议。利用高分辨率三维地震反射资料,探讨了南海北部神狐坡东部起伏地貌的成因、演化及其控制因素。对这些床型的形态计量学分析,以及基于形态计量学的浊流流速计算,将它们区分为浊流产生的床型。神虎斜坡自38期(SB3层)开始至今,形成了两个阶段:1)38期至20期(SB3 - sb4层),形成了强浊流作用下的侵蚀新月形冲刷槽和细长槽;(2)从MIS 12到现在(sb5 -海床层),在相对较弱的洋流作用下形成了沉积层,沉积波具有近线性波峰。它们的演化受古珠江陆架边缘三角洲的进积和上坡马尾正断层系统发育的相互作用支配,1.6 Ma以来泥沙供应增加,2.58 Ma至474 ka之间断层活动减少(MIS 12)。断层控制的管道增强了流速和侵蚀,直到MIS 20,随着断层逐渐被掩埋,它转变为无约束流和沉积波。这些发现强调了沉积物供应和海底地形在形成深水沉积体系中的关键作用,为大陆边缘的沉积动力学提供了见解。
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引用次数: 0
Sea-level and basement structural controls on Late Quaternary sedimentation in a tropical wave-dominated delta: Evidence from subsurface cores in Kaveri Delta, India 海平面和基底构造对热带波主导型三角洲晚第四纪沉积的控制:来自印度Kaveri三角洲地下岩心的证据
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-24 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107700
Kartika Goswami , Linto Alappat , Manoj K. Jaiswal , Sivakumar Krishnan , Anbarasu Kumaresan , Senthil Kumar Sadasivam , Xianjiao Ou
The Kaveri (Cauvery) River delta on the southeast coast of India is among the largest sedimentary archives of peninsular India, preserving a complex record of sea-level fluctuations, fluvial dynamics, and tectonic controls in a tropical wave-dominated setting. This study presents results from four 25 m-deep sediment cores, analysed for chronology using quartz optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating, along with sedimentological characterisation and micropalaeontological (foraminiferal) analysis. Chronological data reveal four marine transgressions during MIS 5.5 (∼122 ka), MIS 5.1 (∼72 ka), MIS 3 (∼41 ka), and MIS 1 (9-6 ka). Corresponding foraminiferal assemblages confirm episodic marine influence well into the deltaic interior. Stratigraphic contrasts between inland and coastal cores indicate that the structural high along the Vedaranyam Ridge influenced accommodation space and sediment trapping within the adjoining Nagapattinam depression. Our findings emphasise that Late Quaternary delta development was governed by both allogenic (climate, sea level) and autogenic (sediment load, channel dynamics) processes. Notably, while Holocene sea-level records are relatively well documented, reliable evidence for Pleistocene highstands from the east coast of India remains sparse and discontinuous. By providing one of the few continuous stratigraphic and chronological records of multiple late Pleistocene highstands from the east coast of India, this study offers new insights into long-term deltaic response to external forcing in low-latitude coastal systems.
位于印度东南海岸的Kaveri (Cauvery)河三角洲是印度半岛最大的沉积档案之一,在热带波浪主导的环境中保存了海平面波动、河流动力学和构造控制的复杂记录。这项研究展示了四个25米深的沉积物岩心的结果,使用石英光学刺激发光(OSL)测年法分析了年代学,以及沉积学特征和微古生物学(有孔虫)分析。时间数据显示在MIS 5.5 (~ 122 ka)、MIS 5.1 (~ 72 ka)、MIS 3 (~ 41 ka)和MIS 1 (9-6 ka)期间发生了4次海侵。相应的有孔虫组合证实了海相对三角洲内部的影响。内陆岩心与沿海岩心的地层对比表明,沿Vedaranyam脊的构造高压影响了相邻Nagapattinam凹陷内的可容纳空间和沉积圈闭。我们的研究结果强调,晚第四纪三角洲的发育是由异体(气候、海平面)和自生(泥沙负荷、河道动力学)过程共同控制的。值得注意的是,虽然全新世的海平面记录相对较好,但来自印度东海岸的更新世高地的可靠证据仍然稀少且不连续。通过提供印度东海岸多个晚更新世高地的为数不多的连续地层和年代学记录之一,本研究为低纬度沿海系统中三角洲对外部强迫的长期响应提供了新的见解。
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引用次数: 0
Environmental changes in the Okinawa Trough over the last 88 ka BP: Evidence from high-resolution bulk mineralogy 冲绳海槽过去88 ka BP的环境变化:来自高分辨率大块矿物学的证据
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-20 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107699
Lingfeng Luo , Xuguang Feng , Jianjun Zou , Xisheng Fang , Xinru Xue , Ruxi Dou , Baohua Han , Qingchao Wang , Aimei Zhu , Zhi Dong , Gang Yang , Xuefa Shi
Deciphering sediment source-to-sink processes along the continental margin remains a frontier in marine sedimentology and paleoenvironmental research. The thick sedimentary sequences in the East China Sea and the Okinawa Trough provide an ideal setting for deciphering the riverine sediment discharge from East Asian rivers into the ocean and the evolution of the Kuroshio Current. While various proxies have been used to investigate sedimentary processes and paleoenvironmental evolution in the Okinawa Trough, debates persist regarding the variation processes, spatial patterns, and controlling mechanisms of sediment fluxes during the late Quaternary. Here, we present high-resolution bulk minerals from core CSH1 in the northern Okinawa Trough to investigate variations in terrigenous sediment composition, provenance, and fluxes over the last 88 ka BP. Dominant minerals in core CSH1 include quartz, plagioclase, mica, and calcite. Notably, calcite content and the calcite/quartz ratio exhibit lower values in glacials and higher values in interglacials, predominantly reflecting biogenic input. Enhanced Kuroshio Current facilitated warm and nutrient-rich waters to the northern Okinawa Trough and stimulate high calcareous productivity during interglacials. Quartz, plagioclase, and mica are typical detrital minerals, primarily derived from the East Asian continent and the Japan island arc. Sediment provenance indicates that the Changjiang and the Huanghe mixed inputs dominated during Marine Isotope Stage (MIS) 5.1, the Huanghe inputs dominated during MIS 4 to MIS 2, while Japan island arc volcaniclastic contributions increase significantly after 8 ka BP. Sea-level exerts a first-order control on terrestrial sediment supply. Other factors including East Asian Summer Monsoon, Kuroshio Current variability, and paleo-eustasy positioning have secondary influence on sediment pattern of the Okinawa Trough.
在海洋沉积学和古环境研究中,对大陆边缘沉积物源-汇过程的解读一直是一个前沿问题。东海和冲绳海槽的厚层序为解析东亚河流向海洋的泥沙排放和黑潮的演化提供了理想的环境。在冲绳海槽沉积过程和古环境演化的研究中,对晚第四纪沉积通量的变化过程、空间格局和控制机制仍存在争议。在这里,我们利用冲绳海槽北部CSH1岩心的高分辨率大块矿物来研究过去88 ka BP的陆源沉积物组成、物源和通量的变化。CSH1岩心的主要矿物有石英、斜长石、云母和方解石。方解石含量和方解石/石英比值在冰期较低,间冰期较高,主要反映了生物输入。间冰期黑潮的增强促进了冲绳海槽北部温暖而富营养的海水,刺激了高钙质生产力。石英、斜长石和云母是典型的碎屑矿物,主要产自东亚大陆和日本岛弧。沉积物物源特征表明,海相同位素阶段(MIS) 5.1以长江和黄河混合输入为主,MIS 4 ~ MIS 2以黄河输入为主,8 ka BP后日本岛弧火山碎屑贡献显著增加。海平面对陆地沉积物供应起一级控制作用。东亚夏季风、黑潮变率和古海游定位等因素对冲绳海槽沉积格局有次要影响。
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引用次数: 0
Morphological response and recovery of a headland-bay beach under sequential typhoon impacts 连续台风影响下海岬湾滩的形态响应与恢复
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-20 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107698
Qi Chen , Yang Zhang , Fangting He , Shihao Liu , Ya Ping Wang , Jianjun Jia
Climate change is increasing the frequency and severity of coastal hazards, with rising sea levels and intensifying typhoons accelerating coastal erosion worldwide. Although headland-bay beaches are widely regarded as topographically protected, they are not immune to substantial erosion during intense typhoons. However, their morphodynamic responses to extreme events—particularly sequential typhoon impacts—remain poorly quantified and mechanistically understood, largely due to the lack of high-resolution monitoring. Here we examine Dasha Beach in Zhejiang Province, China, using high-resolution UAV-derived topography to quantify morphological changes associated with two sequential typhoons, Hinnamnor and Muifa, in September 2022. Hinnamnor generated 9827 m3 of net erosion concentrated in the central beach, and Muifa caused an additional 6370 m3 of erosion, completely removing the remaining beach berm. Post-typhoon recovery deposited 7352 m3 of sediment, predominately reconstructing the northern beach berm, and restoring volumes to pre-Muifa but not pre-Hinnamnor levels. Hydrodynamic analyses reveal pronounced cross-bay gradients in wave energy, with stronger forcing in the northern sector producing enhanced erosion during the typhoons and greater accretion during recovery. During typhoons, waves primarily drove cross-shore sediment transport. In the recovery phase dominated by obliquely incident waves, however, waves facilitated both cross-shore and longshore sediment transport. Swash processes (uprush and backwash) dominated sediment transport, while water-level variations controlled its spatial extent. Specifically, Muifa-induced high water levels combined with energetic waves led to severe berm erosion. The stable berm sediments, derived from well-sorted backshore and dune areas, exhibited minimal grain-size change under typhoon impact. The coarser sediments indicate that the depositional material during the recovery phase originated from the submarine seabed. Although Dasha Beach currently exhibits substantial short-term resilience, increasingly frequent and intense typhoons will pose escalating challenges. Therefore, the assessment of the need for human intervention on the beach and the design of appropriate beach nourishment schemes are among the key focuses for future research. Overall, these findings refine the process-based understanding of storm-driven morphodynamics, and provide a basis for safeguarding headland-bay beach stability.
气候变化增加了沿海灾害的频率和严重程度,海平面上升和台风加剧加速了世界范围内的海岸侵蚀。虽然人们普遍认为岬角湾的海滩在地形上受到保护,但在强烈台风期间,它们也不能幸免于严重的侵蚀。然而,由于缺乏高分辨率的监测,它们对极端事件(特别是连续的台风影响)的形态动力学反应仍然缺乏量化和机制理解。在这里,我们研究了中国浙江省的大沙海滩,使用高分辨率无人机衍生的地形来量化与2022年9月的两个连续台风“欣纳诺”和“梅花”相关的形态变化。Hinnamnor产生了9827立方米的净侵蚀,集中在中央海滩,Muifa造成了6370立方米的额外侵蚀,完全破坏了剩余的海滩护堤。台风后的恢复沉积了7352立方米的沉积物,主要是重建了北部海滩的护堤,并将体积恢复到muifa之前的水平,但没有恢复到hinnamnor之前的水平。水动力分析表明,波浪能的跨湾梯度明显,在台风期间,北段的强作用力使侵蚀加剧,在恢复期间增加。在台风期间,波浪主要推动了跨海岸的沉积物运输。而在以斜入射波为主的恢复阶段,波浪促进了海岸和海岸的泥沙搬运。冲冲和反冲是主导输沙过程,而水位变化控制其空间范围。具体来说,muifa引起的高水位加上高能海浪导致了严重的护堤侵蚀。在台风的影响下,来自分选良好的后海岸和沙丘地区的稳定的堤岸沉积物的粒度变化最小。较粗的沉积物表明,恢复阶段的沉积物质来源于海底。虽然大沙湾目前表现出相当大的短期恢复能力,但日益频繁和强烈的台风将带来越来越大的挑战。因此,评估人为干预海滩的需要和设计适当的海滩营养方案是未来研究的重点之一。总的来说,这些发现完善了基于过程的对风暴驱动的形态动力学的理解,并为维护岬湾海滩的稳定性提供了基础。
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引用次数: 0
Early Pleistocene (1.94–1.46 Ma) records for the upper Mediterranean Outflow Water branch reveal low and high latitude climate influences 早更新世(1.94-1.46 Ma)地中海上游流出水分支的记录揭示了低纬度和高纬度气候的影响
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-13 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107697
Antje H.L. Voelker , Emanuelle Ducassou , Barbara Balestra , Jose Abel Flores , Gary D. Acton , Carl Richter , Chuang Xuan , Johanna Lofi , Ana Alberto , Henning Kuhnert , Carlos A. Alvarez Zarikian
The Mediterranean Outflow Water (MOW), modified by paleoceanographic conditions and tectonic processes, played a significant role in the formation of sediments drifts along the Iberian Margin. Using sediment samples from IODP Hole U1387C, we explore the Early Pleistocene history of the upper MOW core above the central Faro Drift in the Gulf of Cádiz. The time series of benthic foraminifer stable isotope and grain size related data have a rigorous stratigraphic framework consisting of nannofossil biostratigraphy and paleomagnetic and δ18O stratigraphy. The paleoenvironmental records are supplemented by natural gamma ray downhole logging data. Above the hiatus associated with the youngest dolostone, sandy to muddy contourite sedimentation started at 1.946 Ma, i.e., within Marine Isotope Stage (MIS) 74, at IODP Site U1387, slightly younger than at IODP Site U1389. Formation of contourite layers, reflected in the sortable silt and sand percentage records, strongly reacted to precession forcing, including semi- and quarter-precession cycles. The majority of the contourite beds developed during stadial (colder) climate periods, like previous observations from the Early to Late Pleistocene. Formation of contourite layers within MIS 53, MIS 55 and MIS 65, however, appear to be linked to the prevailing atmospheric conditions over North Africa. Periods of poor ventilation in the upper MOW were linked to insolation maxima and reduced ventilation in the Mediterranean Sea. Here, MIS 51 presents a peculiar case as poor ventilation reached from the surface to the lower North Atlantic Deep Water range, reflecting unique interglacial conditions that merit future exploration.
受古海洋条件和构造作用的影响,地中海流出水在伊比利亚边缘沉积物漂移的形成中起着重要作用。利用odp U1387C孔沉积物样品,研究了Cádiz湾法罗流中心上部MOW上部岩心的早更新世历史。底栖有孔虫稳定同位素时间序列和粒度相关数据具有由纳米化石生物地层学、古地磁地层学和δ18O地层学组成的严格的地层格架。自然伽马测井资料补充了古环境记录。在与最年轻的白云岩相关的断裂带之上,在IODP站点U1387,砂质到泥质轮廓岩沉积开始于1.946 Ma,即在海洋同位素阶段(MIS) 74,略低于IODP站点U1389。可分选的粉砂和砂的百分比记录表明,等高沉积层的形成强烈地反映了岁差强迫,包括半岁差和四分之一岁差旋回。大部分的等长岩层是在正常(较冷)气候时期发育的,就像以前从早更新世到晚更新世的观测结果一样。然而,MIS 53、MIS 55和MIS 65内轮廓层的形成似乎与北非的主要大气条件有关。MOW上部通风不良的时期与地中海的日照最大值和通风减少有关。在这里,MIS 51呈现了一个特殊的情况,即从北大西洋深水区到地表的通风不良,反映了独特的间冰期条件,值得未来的勘探。
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引用次数: 0
Geomorphic control of wave run-up by berm morphology on sandy beaches 沙质海滩护堤形态对波浪上升的地貌控制
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-10 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107692
Yingtao Zhou , Zheng Li , Yu Zhu , Yuanshu Jiang , Xi Feng , Weibing Feng , Yulong Xue , Jutong Zhang
This study aims to advance the current understanding of the role that the berm plays in modulating wave run-up dynamics for elevation control purposes. Accurate prediction of wave run-up is essential for coastal hazard assessment and management, yet existing empirical models often fail to account for the dynamic influence of berm morphology. This study introduces a new empirical formula for wave run-up that solves the current wave run-up empirical formula can not adequately consider the instantaneous changes in the berm (including width, elevation, and onshore slope). Using field measurements from sandy beaches in Haikou, China, combined with numerical simulations (XBeach) and video-derived run-up data from a Coastal Shore-based Video Imagery Monitoring System (COSVIMS), we analyze run-up behavior on composite-profile beaches featuring a gentle berm and steep dune. Results demonstrate that berm geometry significantly attenuates run-up: a higher and wider berm reduces both vertical elevation and horizontal extent of run-up. The proposed model which including berm height (hB), berm platform length (LB), and the onshore slope of the berm ridge (βSon) outperforms established formulations across multiple international beach datasets, showing higher correlation and lower root-mean-square error (RMSE = 0.046) than old models. By capturing real-time feedback between berm evolution and run-up, this improved formula resolves the issue of asynchrony between hydrodynamics and run-up, thereby providing a robust basis for real-time calculations of wave-topography interactions.
本研究旨在促进目前对护堤在调节波浪上升动力学以达到高程控制目的中的作用的理解。海浪上升的准确预测对海岸灾害评估和管理至关重要,但现有的经验模型往往不能考虑到护堤形态的动态影响。本文提出了一种新的波浪爬高经验公式,解决了目前波浪爬高经验公式不能充分考虑护堤瞬时变化(包括宽度、高程、岸坡)的问题。利用海口市沙滩的野外测量数据,结合数值模拟(XBeach)和海岸岸基视频图像监测系统(COSVIMS)的视频衍生助跑数据,分析了具有平缓护堤和陡峭沙丘的复合剖面海滩的助跑行为。结果表明,护堤的几何形状显著地减弱了爬升:更高和更宽的护堤降低了爬升的垂直高度和水平程度。该模型包含了滩高(hB)、滩台长度(LB)和滩脊岸坡(βSon),在多个国际海滩数据集上优于现有的公式,具有更高的相关性和更低的均方根误差(RMSE = 0.046)。该改进公式通过捕获堤道演变和助跑之间的实时反馈,解决了水动力和助跑之间的不同步问题,从而为波浪-地形相互作用的实时计算提供了坚实的基础。
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Marine Geology
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