Assembling mountains through food. Typical cheese and politics of mountainness in the Italian Alps

Abstract

The role of typical products in rural regions has sparked scholarly debate, with a great variety of approaches and perspectives employed to investigate agri-food goods with unique territorial characteristics. This paper delves into the complexities surrounding the identification and codification of such products, particularly focusing on the cheese industry within mountain regions. Through the assemblage theory, it explores the multifaceted elements contributing to the production of typical cheese, including geographical indications, local practices and knowledge. Using Castelmagno cheese as a case study, the research investigates the intricate dynamics of its recognition and production, shedding light on important issues such re-localization, economic strategies, and conflicts within the local community. By defining and analyzing the politics of mountainness inherent in the designation of typical products, this study uncovers the diverse perspectives and negotiations shaping rural economies and landscapes. The research elucidates the intricate relationship between the qualification of Castelmagno cheese as a typical product and the relational fabrication of the mountain, both as a tangible geographical entity and as a conceptual construct. Through qualitative methods such as interviews, observations, and literature analysis, it provides insights into the interplay between food production, cultural heritage, and the negotiation of territorial identities in mountainous regions, thus proposing an unconventional understanding of the relationships between food-making and place-making.