The process and politics of heritage-based authentication of food experiences

Abstract

This study examines the process and politics of heritage-based authentication from the perspective of supply-side stakeholders in the context of traditional food in Suzhou, a heritage city in China. Research data were collected through semi-structured interviews with food and tourism stakeholders and participant observation at food production and consumption sites. Analysis of interview data and field notes reveals how the stakeholders establish the legitimacy of traditional food attractions and experiences and engage in negotiating authenticity through certification (“Time-honoured Brand”) and performativity, i.e., the veneration of iconic geographical settings, the amplification of culinary traditions, and the interaction between suppliers and visitors. In this negotiation, restaurateurs and tourism providers emerge as more influential stakeholders compared to other stakeholders, while food producers tend to occupy a less privileged position, primarily because of a gap in traditional food knowledge and their restricted access to tourism markets. By recognising the voices of different producers and suppliers, this study provides insights into the role of power and privilege in the authentication of food experiences.