{"title":"The right to fashion in the age of terrorism.","authors":"Minh-Ha T Pham","doi":"10.1086/655979","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>As part of a feminist commitment to collaboration, this article appears as a companion essay to Mimi Thi Nguyen's \"The Biopower of Beauty: Humanitarian Imperialisms and Global Feminisms\" and offers a point of departure for thinking about fashion and beauty as processes that produce subjects recruited to, and aligned with, the national interests of the United States in the war on terror. The Muslim woman in the veil and her imagined opposite in the fashionably modern - and implicitly Western - woman become convenient metaphors for articulating geopolitical contests of power as a human rights concern, as a rescue mission, as a beautifying mandate. This article examines newer iterations of this opposition, in the wake of September 11, 2001, in order to demonstrate the critical resonance of a biopolitics on fashion and beauty. In \"The Right to Fashion in the Age of Terrorism,\" the author examines the relationship between the U.S. war on terror, targeting persons whose sartorial choices are described as terrorist-looking and oppressive, and the right-to-fashion discourse, which promotes fashion's mass-market diffusion as a civil liberty. Looking at these multiple invocations of the democratization of fashion, this article argues that the right-to-fashion discourse colludes with the war on terror by fabricating a neoliberal consumer-citizen who is also a couture-citizen and whose right to fashion reasserts U.S.exceptionalism, which is secured by private property, social mobility, and individualism.</p>","PeriodicalId":51382,"journal":{"name":"Signs","volume":"36 2","pages":"385-410"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7000,"publicationDate":"2011-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1086/655979","citationCount":"16","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Signs","FirstCategoryId":"90","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1086/655979","RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"WOMENS STUDIES","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 16
Abstract
As part of a feminist commitment to collaboration, this article appears as a companion essay to Mimi Thi Nguyen's "The Biopower of Beauty: Humanitarian Imperialisms and Global Feminisms" and offers a point of departure for thinking about fashion and beauty as processes that produce subjects recruited to, and aligned with, the national interests of the United States in the war on terror. The Muslim woman in the veil and her imagined opposite in the fashionably modern - and implicitly Western - woman become convenient metaphors for articulating geopolitical contests of power as a human rights concern, as a rescue mission, as a beautifying mandate. This article examines newer iterations of this opposition, in the wake of September 11, 2001, in order to demonstrate the critical resonance of a biopolitics on fashion and beauty. In "The Right to Fashion in the Age of Terrorism," the author examines the relationship between the U.S. war on terror, targeting persons whose sartorial choices are described as terrorist-looking and oppressive, and the right-to-fashion discourse, which promotes fashion's mass-market diffusion as a civil liberty. Looking at these multiple invocations of the democratization of fashion, this article argues that the right-to-fashion discourse colludes with the war on terror by fabricating a neoliberal consumer-citizen who is also a couture-citizen and whose right to fashion reasserts U.S.exceptionalism, which is secured by private property, social mobility, and individualism.
作为女权主义者合作承诺的一部分,这篇文章出现在Mimi Thi Nguyen的《美丽的生物力量:人道主义帝国主义和全球女权主义》(The Biopower of Beauty: Humanitarian imperialism and Global feminism)的文章中,并提供了一个出发点,让人们思考时尚和美丽是一种过程,这种过程产生的对象被招募到美国反恐战争中的国家利益,并与之保持一致。戴着面纱的穆斯林妇女和她想象中的时髦的现代——含蓄的西方——女性的对立面,成为表达地缘政治权力竞争的方便隐喻,作为人权问题,作为救援任务,作为美化任务。本文考察了2001年9月11日之后这种对立的新版本,以展示生命政治对时尚和美的批判性共鸣。在《恐怖主义时代的时尚权》一书中,作者考察了美国反恐战争与时尚话语权之间的关系,前者针对的是那些穿着打扮被描述为恐怖分子和压迫性的人,后者促进了时尚作为一种公民自由在大众市场的传播。看看这些对时尚民主化的多重呼吁,本文认为,时尚话语权与反恐战争相勾结,制造了一个新自由主义的消费者公民,他也是一个时装公民,他的时尚权重申了美国例外论,这种例外论是由私有财产、社会流动性和个人主义保障的。
期刊介绍:
Recognized as the leading international journal in women"s studies, Signs has since 1975 been at the forefront of new directions in feminist scholarship. Signs publishes pathbreaking articles of interdisciplinary interest addressing gender, race, culture, class, nation, and/or sexuality either as central focuses or as constitutive analytics; symposia engaging comparative, interdisciplinary perspectives from around the globe to analyze concepts and topics of import to feminist scholarship; retrospectives that track the growth and development of feminist scholarship, note transformations in key concepts and methodologies, and construct genealogies of feminist inquiry; and new directions essays, which provide an overview of the main themes, controversies.