Ceci n’est pas un chapeau: What is Art, and What is Fashion in Degas’s Millinery Series?

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-09-12 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2022.2113602
Naomi Lubrich
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Abstract

Abstract In the past decade, Edgar Degas’s milliner series (1876–1910) received new attention thanks to a youtube video by the Art Institute of Chicago and a joint exhibition in Saint Louis and San Francisco. A consensus has formed to interpret the works, which show milliners and customers contemplating hats, as artistic self-reflection, with the milliners standing for artists and the hats for artworks. This article picks up where the research left off, adding to the interpretation of the works as artistic self-reflection insights on the history of palette pedagogy and literary sources so far not connected to Degas. It also adds a “why,” locating the analogy of hats and art in Degas’s oeuvre, comparing it to that of his contemporaries, and contributing a pragmatic answer to the 19th century discussion: “What is art for?”
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《德加的女帽系列:什么是艺术,什么是时尚》
在过去的十年里,埃德加·德加(Edgar Degas)的女帽系列(1876-1910)受到了新的关注,这要归功于芝加哥艺术学院(Art Institute of Chicago)在youtube上发布的一段视频,以及圣路易斯和旧金山的联合展览。这些作品展示了女帽商和顾客对帽子的思考,人们一致认为,女帽商代表艺术家,帽子代表艺术品,这是一种艺术上的自我反思。这篇文章从研究结束的地方开始,增加了对这些作品的解释,作为对调色板教育学历史和文学来源的艺术自我反思的见解,迄今为止与德加没有联系。它还增加了一个“为什么”,在德加的全部作品中找到帽子和艺术的类比,将其与同时代的作品进行比较,并为19世纪的讨论提供了一个实用的答案:“艺术是为了什么?”
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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