Pub Date : 2023-11-08DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276547
Rachel Lamarche-Beauchesne
AbstractThe ongoing growth of clothing, footwear, and accessories marketed as vegan requires the development of a usable definition for the segment, as well as a review of the classification system which has permeated the use of materials of animal origin within fashion. Guided by literature on fashion, veganism, and animal agriculture, this conceptual article discusses the tangible enactment of ideological values when applied in the context of fashion products and materials. Established within this article is that a vegan fashion or textile product be defined as one that ensures, throughout the supply chain, and in the fibers, materials and chemicals that were used to manufacture the end-product, to be devoid of any forms of animal involvement, namely through the avoidance of animal products, co-products, and by-products. Also suggested is that definitions of materials of animal origin should be reframed to acknowledge the level of involvement required from animals and insects in obtaining materials, namely their death, labor, or secretions. While traditional relationships between humans and animals are rarely questioned, this article, by recentring the animals as unwilling participants in the commercialization of their bodies, offers new ways to reflect upon the fashion industry’s use of animals as resources.Keywords: veganismvegan fashionmaterialstextilesanimals AcknowledgmentsThe author would like to thank Dr Marian Makkar for extensive support and multiple reviews instrumental in the elaboration of this article.Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Additional informationFundingThis research was supported by an Australian Government Research Training Program (RTP) Scholarship.Notes on contributorsRachel Lamarche-BeauchesneRachel Lamarche-Beauchesne is a Ph.D. Candidate within the RMIT School of Marketing, Economics and Finance examining the relationship between veganism and consumption, including in the context of fashion. She has a bachelor’s degree in Fashion business from the Université du Québec à Montréal and a master’s degree in Arts management from RMIT University.
随着服装、鞋类和配饰以素食主义的形式销售的持续增长，需要为这一细分市场制定一个可用的定义，并对已经渗透到时尚界动物来源材料使用中的分类系统进行审查。以时尚、素食主义和动物农业的文献为指导，这篇概念性文章讨论了在时尚产品和材料的背景下，意识形态价值的具体制定。在这篇文章中建立的是，素食时尚或纺织产品被定义为确保在整个供应链中，在用于制造最终产品的纤维，材料和化学品中，没有任何形式的动物参与，即通过避免动物产品，副产品和副产品。还建议应重新定义动物来源材料的定义，以承认动物和昆虫在获取材料过程中所涉及的程度，即它们的死亡、劳动或分泌物。虽然人与动物之间的传统关系很少受到质疑，但这篇文章通过将动物重新定位为不愿参与其身体商业化的参与者，提供了新的方式来反思时尚产业将动物作为资源的使用。作者要感谢Marian Makkar博士对本文的广泛支持和多次评论。披露声明作者未报告潜在的利益冲突。本研究由澳大利亚政府研究培训计划(RTP)奖学金支持。rachel Lamarche-Beauchesne rachel Lamarche-Beauchesne rachel Lamarche-Beauchesne是RMIT市场营销、经济和金融学院的博士候选人，研究素食主义和消费之间的关系，包括在时尚的背景下。她拥有universit du quemacei montracei的时尚商业学士学位和RMIT大学的艺术管理硕士学位。
{"title":"Reviving the Silenced; Defining Vegan Fashion and Classifying Materials of Animal Origin","authors":"Rachel Lamarche-Beauchesne","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276547","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276547","url":null,"abstract":"AbstractThe ongoing growth of clothing, footwear, and accessories marketed as vegan requires the development of a usable definition for the segment, as well as a review of the classification system which has permeated the use of materials of animal origin within fashion. Guided by literature on fashion, veganism, and animal agriculture, this conceptual article discusses the tangible enactment of ideological values when applied in the context of fashion products and materials. Established within this article is that a vegan fashion or textile product be defined as one that ensures, throughout the supply chain, and in the fibers, materials and chemicals that were used to manufacture the end-product, to be devoid of any forms of animal involvement, namely through the avoidance of animal products, co-products, and by-products. Also suggested is that definitions of materials of animal origin should be reframed to acknowledge the level of involvement required from animals and insects in obtaining materials, namely their death, labor, or secretions. While traditional relationships between humans and animals are rarely questioned, this article, by recentring the animals as unwilling participants in the commercialization of their bodies, offers new ways to reflect upon the fashion industry’s use of animals as resources.Keywords: veganismvegan fashionmaterialstextilesanimals AcknowledgmentsThe author would like to thank Dr Marian Makkar for extensive support and multiple reviews instrumental in the elaboration of this article.Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Additional informationFundingThis research was supported by an Australian Government Research Training Program (RTP) Scholarship.Notes on contributorsRachel Lamarche-BeauchesneRachel Lamarche-Beauchesne is a Ph.D. Candidate within the RMIT School of Marketing, Economics and Finance examining the relationship between veganism and consumption, including in the context of fashion. She has a bachelor’s degree in Fashion business from the Université du Québec à Montréal and a master’s degree in Arts management from RMIT University.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"30 S96","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135343230","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-10-27DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276466
Kamran Abbasi, Parveen Ali, Virginia Barbour, Thomas Benfield, Kirsten Bibbins-Domingo, Gregory E. Erhabor, Stephen Hancocks, Richard Horton, Laurie Laybourn-Langton, Robert Mash, Peush Sahni, Wadeia Mohammad Sharief, Paul Yonga, Chris Zielinski
{"title":"Time to treat the climate and nature crisis as one indivisible global health emergency","authors":"Kamran Abbasi, Parveen Ali, Virginia Barbour, Thomas Benfield, Kirsten Bibbins-Domingo, Gregory E. Erhabor, Stephen Hancocks, Richard Horton, Laurie Laybourn-Langton, Robert Mash, Peush Sahni, Wadeia Mohammad Sharief, Paul Yonga, Chris Zielinski","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276466","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276466","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"7 3","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136263585","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-10-18DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2265663
Mina Roces
Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Additional informationNotes on contributorsMina RocesMina Roces is Professor of History at the University of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia. Author of five books, the most recent being The Filipino Migration Experience: Global Agents of Change, (Cornell University Press, 2021), winner of the 2022 NSW Premier’s General History Book Prize, and Gender in Southeast Asia (Cambridge University Press, 2022). In 2019 she received the Grant Goodman Prize for Excellence in Philippine Historical Studies from the Philippine Studies Group of the Association for Asian Studies. m.roces@unsw.edu.au
{"title":"Beauty Regimes. A History of Power and Modern Empire in the Philippines, 1898–1941 <b> <i>Beauty Regimes. A History of Power and Modern Empire in the Philippines, 1898–1941</i> </b> , <b>by</b> Genevieve Alva Clutario <b>(</b> <b>Durham, NC</b> <b>:</b> <b>Duke University Press</b> , 2023 <b>)</b>","authors":"Mina Roces","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2265663","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2265663","url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Additional informationNotes on contributorsMina RocesMina Roces is Professor of History at the University of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia. Author of five books, the most recent being The Filipino Migration Experience: Global Agents of Change, (Cornell University Press, 2021), winner of the 2022 NSW Premier’s General History Book Prize, and Gender in Southeast Asia (Cambridge University Press, 2022). In 2019 she received the Grant Goodman Prize for Excellence in Philippine Historical Studies from the Philippine Studies Group of the Association for Asian Studies. m.roces@unsw.edu.au","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"70 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135823609","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-10-12DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2264083
Jay McCauley Bowstead
Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Additional informationNotes on contributorsJay McCauley BowsteadJay McCauley Bowstead is Coconvenor of the Masculinities Research Hub at London College of Fashion and also teaches at Central Saint Martins. He has published widely on fashion, masculinities and the role of public policy in shaping the creative industries. Author of Menswear Revolution: The Transformation of Contemporary Men’s Fashion (Bloomsbury 2018), he sits on the editorial board of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion and Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty. j.mccauleybowstead@fashion.arts.ac.uk
{"title":"Gay Men’s Style: Fashion, Dress and Sexuality in the 21st Century <b> <i>Gay Men’s Style: Fashion, Dress and Sexuality in the 21st Century</i> </b> by Shaun Cole (London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2023)","authors":"Jay McCauley Bowstead","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2264083","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2264083","url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Additional informationNotes on contributorsJay McCauley BowsteadJay McCauley Bowstead is Coconvenor of the Masculinities Research Hub at London College of Fashion and also teaches at Central Saint Martins. He has published widely on fashion, masculinities and the role of public policy in shaping the creative industries. Author of Menswear Revolution: The Transformation of Contemporary Men’s Fashion (Bloomsbury 2018), he sits on the editorial board of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion and Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty. j.mccauleybowstead@fashion.arts.ac.uk","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"287 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135968955","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-10-02DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261333
Edward Salazar Celis
Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author.Additional informationNotes on contributorsEdward Salazar CelisEdward Salazar Celis is a writer, cultural critic, and educator specializing in Latinx and Latin American arts, fashion, design, and visual cultures. He is the author of the book Nostalgias y Aspiraciones (2021) about fashion and Colombian middle class, and the author and editor of Estudios de la moda en Colombia (2022), the first fashion reader in Colombia. He is pursuing his Ph.D. in Latin American and Latino Studies at the University of California (Santa Cruz). He has lectured in various Latin American institutions about popular culture, sociology of the body, design, and the entanglements between fashion, race, class, and colonial legacies. He works in public humanities in Colombia and within the region thanks to his collaborations in podcasting, television, digital media, printing media, and radio. He has been awarded grants and fellowships in Colombia and the United States. efsalazarc@ucsc.edu
点击放大图片点击缩小图片披露声明作者未报告潜在的利益冲突。爱德华·萨拉查·塞利斯爱德华·萨拉查·塞利斯是一位作家、文化评论家和教育家，专门研究拉丁美洲艺术、时尚、设计和视觉文化。他是关于时尚和哥伦比亚中产阶级的《乡愁与渴望》(Nostalgias y Aspiraciones, 2021)的作者，也是《哥伦比亚时尚工作室》(Estudios de la moda en Colombia, 2022)的作者和编辑，是哥伦比亚第一位时尚读者。他正在加州大学圣克鲁斯分校攻读拉丁美洲和拉丁裔研究博士学位。他曾在多个拉丁美洲机构讲授流行文化、身体社会学、设计以及时尚、种族、阶级和殖民遗产之间的纠缠。他在哥伦比亚和该地区从事公共人文领域的工作，并在播客、电视、数字媒体、印刷媒体和广播领域开展合作。他曾在哥伦比亚和美国获得助学金和奖学金。efsalazarc@ucsc.edu
{"title":"¡Moda Hoy! Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today <b> <i>¡Moda Hoy! Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today,</i> The Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology </b> , New York, NY, May 31–August 27, 2023","authors":"Edward Salazar Celis","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261333","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261333","url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author.Additional informationNotes on contributorsEdward Salazar CelisEdward Salazar Celis is a writer, cultural critic, and educator specializing in Latinx and Latin American arts, fashion, design, and visual cultures. He is the author of the book Nostalgias y Aspiraciones (2021) about fashion and Colombian middle class, and the author and editor of Estudios de la moda en Colombia (2022), the first fashion reader in Colombia. He is pursuing his Ph.D. in Latin American and Latino Studies at the University of California (Santa Cruz). He has lectured in various Latin American institutions about popular culture, sociology of the body, design, and the entanglements between fashion, race, class, and colonial legacies. He works in public humanities in Colombia and within the region thanks to his collaborations in podcasting, television, digital media, printing media, and radio. He has been awarded grants and fellowships in Colombia and the United States. efsalazarc@ucsc.edu","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"41 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135830534","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-09-28DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261337
Rachel Lifter
Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Notes1 Nationalities and birth and death dates are included within the opening text for each designer at the Brooklyn Museum.2 The wall text and object captions for Africa Fashion often differed between the V&A and the Brooklyn Museum: sometimes just small edits and other times large conceptual changes. Within this review, I will indicate these differences through citations. If I do not cite a museum when referring to written materials, it is because the text was the same.3 I was first introduced to the term “hair portraits” through an August 26, 2014 feature on Vogue.com. The feature was called “Forces of Nature: 28 Afropunk Hair Portraits by Artist Awol Eriku” and it was edited by Marjon Carlos.4 In contrast, White-Mifetu and Malvoisin change the opening lines to “During the mid-twentieth century, a new wave of creative expression swept across Africa as much of the continent began to gain independence from European colonial powers—largely the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Belgium, Spain, Portugal, and Italy.”Additional informationNotes on contributorsRachel LifterRachel Lifter is Clinical Assistant Professor and Director of NYU’s master’s program in Costume Studies. Her current research focuses on New York City in the 1980s, the people who worked in the fashion industry at that time, and the impact of the AIDS epidemic on this workforce. rachel.lifter@nyu.edu
{"title":"Africa Fashion <b> <i>Africa Fashion,</i> Victoria & Albert Museum </b> , London, July 2, 2022–April 16, 2023 <b>Brooklyn Museum</b> , New York, June 23, 2023–October 22, 2023","authors":"Rachel Lifter","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261337","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261337","url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Notes1 Nationalities and birth and death dates are included within the opening text for each designer at the Brooklyn Museum.2 The wall text and object captions for Africa Fashion often differed between the V&A and the Brooklyn Museum: sometimes just small edits and other times large conceptual changes. Within this review, I will indicate these differences through citations. If I do not cite a museum when referring to written materials, it is because the text was the same.3 I was first introduced to the term “hair portraits” through an August 26, 2014 feature on Vogue.com. The feature was called “Forces of Nature: 28 Afropunk Hair Portraits by Artist Awol Eriku” and it was edited by Marjon Carlos.4 In contrast, White-Mifetu and Malvoisin change the opening lines to “During the mid-twentieth century, a new wave of creative expression swept across Africa as much of the continent began to gain independence from European colonial powers—largely the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Belgium, Spain, Portugal, and Italy.”Additional informationNotes on contributorsRachel LifterRachel Lifter is Clinical Assistant Professor and Director of NYU’s master’s program in Costume Studies. Her current research focuses on New York City in the 1980s, the people who worked in the fashion industry at that time, and the impact of the AIDS epidemic on this workforce. rachel.lifter@nyu.edu","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"28 7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135344585","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-08-22DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243766
M. O’Connell
{"title":"Object Lives and Global Histories in Northern North America: Material Culture in Motion, C. 1780-1980","authors":"M. O’Connell","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243766","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243766","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46717606","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-08-22DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2247901
Lacey Minot
{"title":"Sur les routes de Samarcande. Merveilles de soie et d’or (On the Routes of Samarkand. Marvels of Silk and of Gold)","authors":"Lacey Minot","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2247901","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2247901","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44504495","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-08-09DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243702
Nigel Lezama
{"title":"Des cheveux et des poils","authors":"Nigel Lezama","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243702","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243702","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48951950","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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