Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-04-04 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869
S. Delice
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Abstract

Abstract Ideas and concepts have their own lives and resilience, to which one should be sensitive. This article focuses on the ways in which a group of Indian artisan organizations and collectives deploy—in their critical exchange with a designer and retailer that have privileged access to the transnationally circulating capital—the concept of appropriation as a tool to confront the hierarchical divisions of labor, and the unequal distribution of capital, within the globalized circuits of transnational fashion production. In bringing together Karl Marx’s critique of the appropriation of living labor by objectified labor and David Harvey’s critical exposé of the new mechanisms of “accumulation by dispossession,” and connecting these labor-focused perspectives on appropriation to the phenomenon of so-called cultural appropriation, the following investigates the potentiality of appropriation in facilitating a transnational labor ethics that defies the problematic segregation of the “design” and “creative” processes from the increasingly alienated and absorbed productive forces of the dispossessed artisan and craft communities.
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挪用与跨国劳动伦理批判
抽象的思想和概念有其自身的生命力和韧性,人们应该对此保持敏感。这篇文章聚焦于一群印度工匠组织和集体在与有权获得跨国流通资本的设计师和零售商的批判性交流中,如何部署挪用的概念,将其作为对抗等级分工和资本分配不平等的工具,在跨国时装生产的全球化循环中。将卡尔·马克思(Karl Marx)对物化劳动对生活劳动的侵占的批判与大卫·哈维(David Harvey)对“剥夺积累”新机制的批判结合在一起,并将这些以劳动为中心的侵占视角与所谓的文化侵占现象联系起来,以下研究了挪用在促进跨国劳动伦理方面的潜力,该伦理无视“设计”和“创造性”过程与被剥夺的工匠和工艺社区日益疏远和吸收的生产力的问题隔离。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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