Innovativeness in tradition: a study on the physical performance of leather scale armors during the Joseon Dynasty

IF 2.3 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-15 DOI:10.1186/s40691-023-00344-w
Ga Young Park, Han Bi Lee, Yuree Oh, Jung Ah Lim, Min Wook Lee
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Abstract

During the Joseon Dynasty, light and convenient leather armors were developed to replace metal armors, which were heavy and difficult to manufacture. Leather armors allowed easy movement of the troops and, because arrows were the primary weapons at the time, provided them with protection. The excellent performance of leather armors can be attributed to their materials and manufacturing method. The scales of the leather armor relics are prepared by layering animal skins, attaching them with natural glue, and then coating their outer surface with lacquer. The lacquer extracted from the lacquer (Ott) tree is an excellent material with high strength, waterproofing and antiseptic properties, insect repellency, heat resistance, as well as chemical resistance. The superior performance of the leather scale was reported in old scripts; however, it has not been proven through scientific analysis and testing. Therefore, in this study, the physical and mechanical properties, impact resistance, and anti-stab performance of leather scales manufactured following the traditional method were investigated. The results confirmed the excellent protection, impact resistance, and mechanical properties of the leather specimens glued with fish glue and coated with lacquer compared to those of specimens glued with synthetic glue and uncoated specimens glued with fish glue. This study reveals the excellent properties of fish glue and lacquer, which enable them to be used in various industries.

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传统的革新:朝鲜时代皮革鳞甲的物理性能研究
在朝鲜时代,为了代替沉重且难以制造的金属盔甲,开发出了轻便的皮革盔甲。皮甲使部队的行动更加方便,而且由于箭是当时的主要武器,为他们提供了保护。皮甲的优异性能与其材料和制作方法有关。皮甲文物的鳞片是将兽皮层层叠加,用天然胶水粘在兽皮上,再在兽皮的外表面涂上一层漆而成。从漆树中提取的漆是一种具有高强度、防水、防腐、驱虫、耐热、耐化学等性能的优良材料。旧文献报道了皮革秤优越的性能;然而,它还没有经过科学的分析和测试。因此,本研究对传统方法生产的皮革鳞片的物理力学性能、抗冲击性能和抗刺伤性能进行了研究。结果表明,涂鱼胶和涂漆的皮革样品与涂合成胶和未涂鱼胶的皮革样品相比,具有优异的防护性、抗冲击性和力学性能。该研究揭示了鱼胶和真漆的优良性能,使其能够在各种行业中得到应用。
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来源期刊
Fashion and Textiles
Fashion and Textiles Business, Management and Accounting-Marketing
CiteScore
4.40
自引率
4.20%
发文量
37
审稿时长
13 weeks
期刊介绍: Fashion and Textiles aims to advance knowledge and to seek new perspectives in the fashion and textiles industry worldwide. We welcome original research articles, reviews, case studies, book reviews and letters to the editor. The scope of the journal includes the following four technical research divisions: Textile Science and Technology: Textile Material Science and Technology; Dyeing and Finishing; Smart and Intelligent Textiles Clothing Science and Technology: Physiology of Clothing/Textile Products; Protective clothing ; Smart and Intelligent clothing; Sportswear; Mass customization ; Apparel manufacturing Economics of Clothing and Textiles/Fashion Business: Management of the Clothing and Textiles Industry; Merchandising; Retailing; Fashion Marketing; Consumer Behavior; Socio-psychology of Fashion Fashion Design and Cultural Study on Fashion: Aesthetic Aspects of Fashion Product or Design Process; Textiles/Clothing/Fashion Design; Fashion Trend; History of Fashion; Costume or Dress; Fashion Theory; Fashion journalism; Fashion exhibition.
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