“Broken and Useless”. Notes on Fashion and Textile Recycling and Repurposing in 18th Century Venice

IF 0.4 N/A HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI:10.1080/20511817.2020.1818942
Isabella Campagnol
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Abstract

Abstract In 18th century Venice, a city renowned for its unparalleled opulence, judicious recycling and repurposing of luxury textiles, was, ironically, the norm. Archival documents routinely list elegant, but “worn out” items, as in the 1773 inventory of Marina Eirardi, where a number of broken and “useless” clothing items are mentioned, and where is carefully described what remains of a precious gown made with a “brocade fabric with gold and silver flowers … disassembled into pieces and the gold and silver flowers had been removed … so that holes remain in their places”. While we do not know what happened to the flowers, it is anyway clear that these valuable elements were saved and somehow recycled, if only to melt down the precious metals. Comparing this document with an almost contemporary garment, the paper proposes to explore examples of patrician thriftiness, opening interesting avenues of investigations about the reuse of luxury items.
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“破碎而无用”。关于18世纪威尼斯时装和纺织品回收利用的笔记
摘要具有讽刺意味的是,在18世纪的威尼斯,这座以其无与伦比的富裕、明智的奢侈纺织品回收和再利用而闻名的城市,却成了常态。档案文件通常会列出优雅但“破旧”的物品,比如1773年玛丽娜·艾拉尔迪的清单,其中提到了一些破损和“无用”的衣服,其中仔细描述了一件珍贵的长袍的残骸,这件长袍是用“金银花锦织物……拆成碎片,金银花被移走了……所以在它们的位置上留下了洞”制成的。虽然我们不知道这些花发生了什么,但很明显,这些有价值的元素被保存下来,并以某种方式被回收,哪怕只是为了融化贵金属。将这份文件与一件几乎现代的服装进行比较,本文建议探索贵族节俭的例子,为奢侈品的再利用开辟有趣的调查途径。
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来源期刊
Luxury-History Culture Consumption
Luxury-History Culture Consumption HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
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