Memories reminisced, reconciled, renewed: Hong Kong male consumers’ wardrobes and their search for a congruent self

IF 2.4 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Journal of Consumer Culture Pub Date : 2023-01-04 DOI:10.1177/14695405221149098
T. Tse, Johanna von Pezold
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引用次数: 1

Abstract

Previous research on fashion, clothing and accessorising practices typically stressed either the symbolic and identity-creating or practical and habitual functions of fashion, often neglecting its affective, emotive and mnemonic aspects. Drawing on affective theory and the agency of things, we theorise how the affects, feelings and emotions attached to active and inactive fashion objects evoke and are evoked by the consumer’s ongoing reminiscence, reconciliation, and renewal of memories. Remapping the intricate relationship among consumers, memory, affect, and fashion objects, this article employs wardrobe study interviews to reconceptualise the clothing consumption, storage and disposal practices of male fashion consumers in Hong Kong and their trans-temporal self-memory-object relationships. Interviewing 21 gay male participants while physically going through their wardrobes together reveals the mnemonic abilities of clothes and accessories to bring up the past, their functioning as emotive devices, and the process of how affective, unpatterned feelings and sensations are reminisced, reconciled and renewed through fashion. These unique theoretical and methodological approaches make it possible to delve deeper into consumers’ intimate material and sensual relationships with clothing and accessory items, which are often used to make sense of incongruent memories and future fantasies, also enabling their ongoing mediation of unresolved affective experiences and curation of a linear cultural script of personal development.
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回忆回忆,和解,更新:香港男性消费者的衣柜和他们对一致自我的追求
以往对时尚、服装和配饰实践的研究通常强调时尚的象征性和身份创造,或实用性和习惯性功能,而往往忽视其情感、情感和记忆方面。根据情感理论和事物的能动性,我们对活跃和不活跃的时尚物品所产生的影响、感受和情绪是如何唤起消费者持续的回忆、和解和记忆更新的。本文通过对香港男性时尚消费者的服装消费、存储和处置行为及其跨时自我记忆-对象关系的问卷调查,重新梳理了消费者、记忆、情感和时尚对象之间的复杂关系。采访了21名男同性恋参与者,同时一起翻阅他们的衣柜,揭示了衣服和配饰唤起过去的记忆能力,它们作为情感装置的作用,以及情感、未经修饰的感觉和感受如何通过时尚被回忆、调和和更新的过程。这些独特的理论和方法使我们有可能更深入地研究消费者与服装和配饰的亲密物质和感官关系,这些关系通常被用来理解不协调的记忆和未来的幻想,也使他们能够持续调解未解决的情感体验,并策划个人发展的线性文化脚本。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
5.70
自引率
3.80%
发文量
36
期刊介绍: The Journal of Consumer Culture is a major new journal designed to support and promote the dynamic expansion in interdisciplinary research focused on consumption and consumer culture, opening up debates and areas of exploration. Global in perspective and drawing on both theory and empirical research, the journal reflects the need to engage critically with modern consumer culture and to understand its central role in contemporary social processes. The Journal of Consumer Culture brings together articles from the many social sciences and humanities in which consumer culture has become a significant focus. It also engages with overarching contemporary perspectives on social transformation.
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